Jump to content

‘98 headlights, step bars...and more?


Recommended Posts

4 hours ago, GTroyer said:

They have year matching ? That’s 2004-xx

 

Honestly I can’t see anywhere on the description where it states what model year it’s for. I assumed 2nd gen as that’s what I was searching for. 

This is another option. 

https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/headlight-relay-kits/gen2-dodge-truck-sport-headlight-conversion-relay-kit/

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, Woodenhead said:

I think I’m going to rider this harness and a set of sport headlights. If I’m reading it right it’ll be plug and play to connect the sport lights and get the load off my switch. 

https://www.aspireautoaccessories.com/product-page/9004-9007-heavy-duty-headlight-relay-harness-for-dodge-ram-sport-conversion

 

 

Depending on how your sheet metal is set up you may have to do some cutting for the Sport headlights. It can/Has been done by members here.

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, C Paul Go said:

Depending on how your sheet metal is set up you may have to do some cutting for the Sport headlights. It can/Has been done by members here.

Yeah, I took a peak and I will have to do some trimming. I’m ok with that. 
I sent an email to Genos and Aspire to confirm that the “brite box” kit they offer will take the load off the light switch with relays as well as accomplish the sport conversion. 
There are countless headlight options out there, I’m hopeful this will be adequate without being one of those guys blinding everyone else on the road. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Only negative I remember from the posts a long time ago IIRC the brute box ( not sure what brands were being talked about) some were tight as to the wiring length .. they worked but the posts said they wished they were a bit longer ... ya might do a search and re-read what was being talked about back then

 

maybe not as if I remember there were a bunch of threads over the years 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yo Dog

are your bumper facia deep/tall  and paint matched to truck colors ( sport indicator) 

 

Is truck original new to you factory/dealership purchased ,  if second owner maybe first owner changed out the headlights ??? 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Mike Send Marty a message here. (MSquare)  He did a ton of research on this and I believe found what could be the best option for you. 

 

I don't think the Brite box will remove load from the switch, but it won't introduce more load when your running fogs/high beam combined.

 

To reduce load ask Marty he found someone that made a very user friendly kit if IRC.

Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/27/2020 at 4:23 AM, C Paul Go said:

Mike Send Marty a message here. (MSquare)  He did a ton of research on this and I believe found what could be the best option for you. 

 

I don't think the Brite box will remove load from the switch, but it won't introduce more load when your running fogs/high beam combined.

 

To reduce load ask Marty he found someone that made a very user friendly kit if IRC.

 

Thanks for digging that up for me Paul. I knew this had been done many times in the past, I did a lot of searching and reading but finding recent information is not as easy for these old 2nd gens so many of the links don’t work anymore. It looks like Marty used Daniel Stern lighting back then, I think I’ve read that DS is not doing this anymore and his website looks like it’s gone stale but I sent him an email anyway.

 

Aspire auto confirmed for me that they offer two kits for this. 

 

One is a straight conversion, they offer upgraded wire gauges and soldered connections as an option for this one. This kit will use relays and take the load off your headlight switch. 

https://www.aspireautoaccessories.com/product-page/9004-9007-heavy-duty-headlight-relay-harness-for-dodge-ram-sport-conversion

 

The other is a conversion with the “Brite Box” that allows you to run high and low beam at the same time.  You can also have fog light control with this so all three light sets (high,low,fog) can be on with high beams.  I’m pretty sure this is the same kit Genos has been selling for decades. This kit will not take the load off your headlight switch. 

https://www.aspireautoaccessories.com/product-page/the-brite-box-for-dodge-2500-3500-4500-5500

I removed the fog lights when I installed this bumper but I might put an LED light bar on it and run that with the fog light circuit on a relay.

 

I realize that this is more detail than anyone other than me needs at the moment but I figured I’d spell it all out in case it’s helpful for someone later.

 

Edited by Woodenhead
Link to post
Share on other sites

Daniel Stern is indeed still in business. He replied to my inquiry with some excellent information.  I’ve ordered new Dorman sport housings, an upgraded headlight switch with a new plug that I’ll need to wire in and philips bulbs, all parts that he recommended.  I’ll also have him make up the wiring harness for me. This isn’t the cheapest route but I figure if I’m gonna do this I want to be confident I’m using quality parts, he has a solid reputation so I’ll go with his recommendations. 

 

I’m excited to get this done and not be afraid to drive this thing at night anymore, it’s that bad.

Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Woodenhead said:

Daniel Stern is indeed still in business. He replied to my inquiry with some excellent information.  I’ve ordered new Dorman sport housings, an upgraded headlight switch with a new plug that I’ll need to wire in and philips bulbs, all parts that he recommended.  I’ll also have him make up the wiring harness for me. This isn’t the cheapest route but I figure if I’m gonna do this I want to be confident I’m using quality parts, he has a solid reputation so I’ll go with his recommendations. 

 

I’m excited to get this done and not be afraid to drive this thing at night anymore, it’s that bad.

And when your done you’ll wonder why you waited so long to upgrade the old girl 👍

good on ya for giving yourself some more safety and night vision 

Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, Woodenhead said:

Daniel Stern is indeed still in business. He replied to my inquiry with some excellent information.  I’ve ordered new Dorman sport housings, an upgraded headlight switch with a new plug that I’ll need to wire in and philips bulbs, all parts that he recommended.  I’ll also have him make up the wiring harness for me. This isn’t the cheapest route but I figure if I’m gonna do this I want to be confident I’m using quality parts, he has a solid reputation so I’ll go with his recommendations. 

 

I’m excited to get this done and not be afraid to drive this thing at night anymore, it’s that bad.

I have never heard anything but praise about the man and his products. I'm glad I remembered Marty posting about what he found. Marty (Msquared) is one hell of a researcher and doesn't buy things without doing the prior leg work.

 

Glad it worked out.  I think I will be doing some headlight upgrades to my truck here soon, but 3rd gen on is so much easier than the early model trucks to do.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think we should add this statement for anyone searching and looking in the future.

 

 

As for the harness, google Daniel Stern Lighting, he is the "lighting guru", he has all the info and parts needed for assembling a heavy duty wiring harness. Or you can go the route I went and pay him to build it! I'm useless when it comes to anything electric, it was spendy, but it is flat out awesome compared to any others (SUVharness) that were available at the time.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I had come across Daniel Stern in many of my searches but they were all very old posts.  You digging that up certainly made me give it a second thought. There’s another made in USA harness available that is a bit less money but DS provides a good service and good advice so I feel good about supporting that.

 

His website is: https://www.danielsternlighting.com

His contact information is there, you need to email him if you want to make an order or ask questions. 

 

 Below is the information he sent me which may also be useful for a bomber wanting to do this in the future. 

 

 

 

You're right, my website is past due for an overhaul; I'm too busy helping people see 🙂


Below is the tech info on how to do this upgrade correctly (you may know some of it already, but give it all a read-thru); below that is the ordering info.

The entire headlamp system (lamps, wires, switches) was underspecified on these trucks, and the switches and switch connectors tend to slow-roast to death even with stock lights. There's a Chrysler repair kit for trucks up through '98.5 models (new switch, new connector with wires and heat-shrink tubing for the install), part number 4886449AB, which costs less money from reputable aftermarket supplier Standard Motor Products: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C7XVDY/?tag=2402507-20
If your headlamp switch and/or connector have burned up/failed, install this package to fix the cooked/dead headlight switch and connector. Then solve the root cause of the problem once and for all.

Put in a set of the '99-'01 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport headlamps, which are
*much* better than the lamps all non-Sport '94-'02 style Rams got, and are the *only* legitimate headlamp upgrade for these trucks—all of the aftermarket restyled ones (projectors, LEDs, jewel-effect looks, blackout looks, etc) are headlite-shaped trinkets not capable of providing even minimally adequate safety performance. The Sport lamps use two bulbs per side—a 9007 high/low and a 9004 high-only—and produce much more effective, longer and wider, better focused beam patterns. They physically fit right in (early-production trucks may need a ridge of metal behind the headlamps shaved down), and require some wiring adaptation, which is just as well since the factory wiring tends to starve
the bulbs.

You need:

-a set (left and right) of the '99-'01 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport headlamps. The real ones, genuine Chrysler Mopar parts, are discontinued. Most of the aftermarket units now available are of poor quality, so you have to shop carefully. Your best bet is these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JW24W0G/?tag=2402507-20
and
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JW2440E/?tag=2402507-20


*Wire-up supplies*

You have two options. Pick one:

-a Dodge Ram conversion wiring and relay installation package RIK-RAM, $109

The RIK-RAM is not a built-up harness, it is a parts package including all necessary plugs, sockets, terminals, fused fuseholders, relays, relay brackets, terminal blocks, etc. -- everything except actual wire -- to install the new headlamps _and_ eliminate the voltage drop present in the factory-type wiring. You supply your own wire and use the parts from the kit to build up your own wiring harness. The concept is explained at http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html .Parts are specially made premium-grade items (e.g. ceramic headlamp sockets) that accept large-gauge wire; this is not the "consumer grade" junk you can find at the parts store.

Or, option "b":

-A ready-to-install relay harness custom-built and tested by my harness builder using the same components. Cost for this option is $189 (including parts and labor).

You pick _either_ the relay kit _or_ the custom-built harness. It costs more than the chintzy and unreliable $30 to $50 Chinese prefab harnesses because it is not a Chinese prefab harness).  Either way, the in-cab switches continue working normally, and you will not need to cut or otherwise disturb any of the vehicle's original wires. And either method will work fine on a dual-battery Ram.

*A set (two 9007 and two 9004) of ultra high efficacy bulbs.*

The best 9004 and 9007 bulbs presently on the market are the Philips Xtreme Vision: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C5QY6TC/?tag=2402507-20 (9004)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U1OLNUG/?tag=2402507-20 (9007)


Do not buy blue or "extra white" bulbs (Silver Star, Crystal Vision, TruView, Hoen, PIAA, etc.); despite the heavy advertising push and claims of "brighter and whiter" light, they actually produce _less_ light due to the blue glass they use.

"HID kits" in halogen-bulb headlamps or fog/auxiliary lamps (any kit, any lamp, any vehicle no matter whether it's a car, truck, motorcycle, etc.) do not work safely or effectively, which is why they are illegal. See http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html .

Same goes for "LED conversion" bulb kits. They are not a legitimate, safe, effective, or legal product. No matter whose name is on them or what the vendor claims, these are a fraudulent scam. They are not capable of producing the right amounts of light, nor producing it in the right pattern for the lamp's optics to work.

_Headlamp aim and operation_

Lamp aim is by far the main thing that determines how well you can (or can't) see at night with any given set of lamps, so this is crucial: you will need to see to it that the lamps are aimed carefully and correctly per the instructions at http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html (yours are the "older U.S. lamps" type).

There is only _one_ proper operational setup for the Sport lamps, and that is as follows:

Low beam mode: Low beam filament of outboard 9007 bulb on, all other filaments off.

High beam mode: High beam filament of outboard 9007 and high beam filament of inboard 9004 on, all other filaments off.

The low beam filament of the inboard 9004 is not used—these lamps do not have optics to focus the light from it.

In _no_ case are the low beam and high beam filaments on together. Two-filament headlight bulbs are pressurised to about 10 atmospheres when cold, and this pressure skyrockets when the bulbs are at operating temperature. They are not designed to handle the heat (or the current on the common filament support lead) of running both filaments at the same time for more than very brief periods during beam changeover or headlight flashing. Doing so carries the very real risk of the bulb grenading inside the headlamp, destroying it (and holding the beam selector switch to run both at the same time will cook your wiring and switches). Some people wire it up this way anyhow, with or without a "Brite Box" device, and sooner or later get to learn the expensive way that it wasn't a good idea.

_Daytime running lights:_

If yours is a Canadian-spec truck (either by original manufacture or by private importation), or you're not in Canada but have had the Daytime Running Light function enabled, you will need to rework the daytime running lamps (DRL). The stock DRL configuration runs the high beam circuit at reduced duty cycle. This is not safely compatible with any kind of relay installation. If you don't disable the DRLs before installing relays, the DRLs will operate in an unsafe and illegal manner until the relays cook to death (and they will). Info on how to disable the factory DRL function can be found at http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html#Dodge .

Don't just leave the truck without working DRLs, though -- move the DRL function to a pair of lamps other than the headlamps (and in case you were thinking of it, no, in order to comply with the legal requirements for on-road use, the DRLs must be automatic; just turning the lights on manually when you drive doesn't get the job done).

There are good reasons to keep (or add) a DRL function on your truck: Daytime running lights -- legitimate ones, configured appropriately for automatic operation -- are good to have. They significantly reduce your risk of being in a crash during the daytime, and are required equipment in Canada, throughout Europe, and in a large and growing number of other countries throughout the world because they are a very cost-effective safety device (i.e., they work). You can easily enable them in your vehicle using a DRL-1 module ($59); see http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/DRL/DRL1.html for instructions and demonstration videos. This is the best way to put a daytime running light function on a vehicle not originally equipped (or which has had its headlamp-based DRLs disabled for installation of headlight relays). The module enables the steady-burning operation of both front directional signals as daytime running lights (except, of course, when you're signalling for a turn). They produce a light distribution with a wide view angle, are generally well located for DRL service at the outboard edges of the front of the vehicle, consume considerably less power than any headlamp-based DRL implementation, use light sources of generally much longer life than a headlight bulb, do not encourage improper nighttime use of lights, and do not require additional lighting devices to be added. A large variety of vehicles from a wide array of makers use this kind of DRL as original equipment. It is steady-lit operation of the bright amber turn signals (except when they are flashing to signal a turn) -- it is not steady operation of the dim parking lamps; parking lights are not bright enough and don't have the right view angles to serve the daytime running light function. Turn signal DRLs comply with US and Canadian Motor Vehicle Safety Standards #108 and are approved in all states, provinces, and territories.

If you install the DRL module, pop in a set of DRL-spec (ultralong-life) front turn signal bulbs. That's these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KSALXM/?tag=2402507-20

When installing things like DRL modules, It's best not to use the fold-over-and-crunch "Scotchlok" type taps. Much better, more durably trouble-free result if you use Posi-Taps, http://www.allpar.com/reviews/other/posi-tap.html . I don't carry them, but if you'll get this assortment, you'll surely find uses for them (they're one of those products that you buy for a particular project, but then other uses for them keep popping up in front of you once you have them): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009RPDOAM/?tag=2402507-20

_Driving lamps_
"Driving lamp" or "driving light" is a widely misunderstood term. People use it to refer to all kinds of different lights. In fact, driving lamps are auxiliary high beams. They are effective, safe, and legal only for use with the vehicle's main high beam headlamps on dark, empty roads (or off road). Never with low beams, never by themselves, and never in traffic.

If I were in a truck like yours and wanted a good auxiliary high beam setup, I would buy this (specific) unit:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779ZZ8PW/?tag=2402507-20

Install per the instructions included, and aim straight-ahead ("VO" setting on the beam machine). Together with careful headlamp aim, this'll do just what you want.

_Fog lamps_

Fog lamps should spend most of their time turned off; even very good fog lamps are of very limited use to most drivers in most conditions. Please see http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/fog_lamps/fog_lamps.html for thorough information about what fog lamps will/won't and can/can't do. Nevertheless, many drivers do in fact have sloppy weather to drive in, and good fog lamps can make that easier and safer to cope with. The factory items are useless toys no matter what bulb is installed (though you can make them dangerous by installing anything other than the specified bulb). There is now a very good glass-and-metal Hella fog lamp that takes a real bulb (H7) and can be adapted to the stock mounting location with a little cleverness. The lamps are $132/pair including bulb, and the harness to run them off the stock fog lamp switch is $89.


*For items with a price quote in this email:*
Any items I've quoted prices on are items I sell myself. For those, please use the instructions that follow this section.

Edited by Woodenhead
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Aspire got back to me today and confirmed that the Brite Box sport conversion kit does NOT take the load off your headlight switch. I believe this is the same kit Genos offers. My mind is already made up but I wanted to update the information I posted previously. I would definitely not use this kit without redirecting the power, seems like a good way to burn your truck down with a fire starting in the upper left corner of your dash.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

There is in archives a wire diagram from light switch trigger to relays to make this wiring to sports using relays , don’t remember who did it but was a good one

 

a long time ago I had it in my “documents “ folder but long ago cleaned out sorry

Edited by GTroyer
Link to post
Share on other sites
There is in archives a wire diagram from light switch trigger to relays to make this wiring to sports using relays , don’t remember who did it but was a good one
 
a long time ago I had it in my “documents “ folder but long ago cleaned out sorry

There’s one in Daniel Sterns website.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Project_dog said:

Well I'm sure I will be doing this to my truck. 


I’ll try and get a few photos and details of the install. Plan ahead for the harness, I was told today it’ll take about 10 days. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...