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Yeah, even if it really does need stringers too I think it’s worth saving. To do anything else would crush the boys dreams at this point lol. 

When it’s done at least we’ll know we have a solid safe boat. 

 

Thanks for the tips on the glass Russ. Being white, it’s hard to tell how bad it really is. I have a good variable speed Porter Cable buffer that’ll do damage if I’m not careful. It’ll either get a few rounds of buffing or might get wet sanding first if need be. We’ll strip the hull of all the fittings, cleats and windshield first. 

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The boy and I jumped the motor off the old Dodge and she cranked over just fine. Did a compression test and both holes were 115-120psi according to the quality harbor freight gauge.    The fuel

Bit of progress today. The boy and I cut the floor out. The plywood was completely soaked from front to back. The foam was saturated with water as well, we got most if that out today too. Drilled a f

Snipped a little piece out of the edge of the floor, looks like it’ll be pretty straight forward and clean to just cut into the void around the edge of the plywood and pull it out. Then grind it clean

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Snipped a little piece out of the edge of the floor, looks like it’ll be pretty straight forward and clean to just cut into the void around the edge of the plywood and pull it out. Then grind it clean.

 

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The plywood is 3/8 thick, exactly 48” wide and a little less than 12’ long. I’ll probably just source two 4x8 sheets. The glass over the floor is 1/8”.

 

The bilge is essentially “sealed” off by the floor and filled with floatation foam. There’s a drain in the transom for the bilge and another one higher up for the floor but no provision for a bilge pump. I’m considering glassing in a well in the floor at the stern for a bilge pump.

 

I have some things to figure out before I tear into the transom. I can get most of the wood out from the inside and save the outer skin but part of it is covered by the motor well. I don’t want to cut the entire well off as I’ll never get it to look right. I might just cut the cap off and work down from the top, then glass in a new cap.

 

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The work can’t really start on this thing till Loose Cruise is settled into the shop and things get cleaned up in there a bit. But I did do some shopping on eBay and found these. The service directory is pretty interesting, even Ephrata had a Johnson service location back in the day. I love reading these old manuals. Apparently I can tear the postage paid envelope out of the back of the owners manual, drop it in the mail with $4 cash and they’ll send me the service manual. It’s tempting just to see what happens [emoji23]
Replacement keys are $1 but you have to buy two mail them $2 and give them the number off the ignition switch.

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Made a motor stand and got the motor off today. Yarded out all the wiring and controls. Surprisingly the wiring harness is in decent shape and is reusable.

Got a better look at the transom, it’s bad but that’ll make it easier to tear out. It looks like the motor well used to just be in the middle but they cut part of it out and extended it to the port side so they could add a kicker, they really did a decent job with the glass work on that.

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Bit of progress today. The boy and I cut the floor out. The plywood was completely soaked from front to back. The foam was saturated with water as well, we got most if that out today too.
Drilled a few holes in the glassed stringers, surprisingly they seem solid but I’ll need to check them out a bit further.
The stringer running up the middle will need to be replaced for sure. I’ll try and make a 12” square hole for a bulge at the back.

I’m think I’ll be better off just separating the entire top cap to do the transom. It might not be too difficult to do but I’ll need to build some supports for the hull.

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