thumper 549

wash it dwn so to get a good look. If that fails throw babby powder up in there and you will see the trail

i did it to my 1998, POC (piece of cake) G56 You need a BIG hammor to bang out the tunnel a little shorten the rear Drive shaft 3.5 and lengthen front 3.5 stretch the transfer case shift rod 3.5 , do something to the cross memeber.......cant remember ...CRS All in all was simple enough

G56 is a great UNIT

When they made the Ram they chose the cheapest parts available. But the parts that may fail and fall off are made to the highest qualities known to pencil pushers.

NV 4500? super common. They make various patch kits for it. I patched mine with an early G56 many YEARS AGO.

Which Fox Shocks? Yes -I will check the Ball joints , If They come up bad, '' which ones are now the newest rage? Used to be XF Now I hear they are bad, others too stiff..... Then IDK who. The ONLY advantage to the 2nd Gen axle is- for some reason they do not eat them as the outboard disk brake ones do

Thanx- Yes the conversion. Y to T. I found it. am I going to have to buy this through Dodge ? Or is NAPA OK too? Next- Maybe cause I am here on the east coast nowadays Diesel Outfitters will not bother with me.

Thanx a bunch. For some reason, I thought I had to buy a complete tie rod kit to get rid of the weirdness of the stock configuration. The newer the upgrade the better. I was going to buy a bunch of stuff at one time from a shop in Arlington-(last year) but the guys would not ever get back to me. I forget the name of the shop. I think Hoss recommended it.

1998 .5 Ram 3500 Shocks and tie rod are original 270,000 miles Time for new. I was going to do this last year- never got to it OK Should the springs be replaced too? Is there a ride height posted anywhere for stock truck? Shocks- whos? from where? Tie rod which one, from where? I bought a reamer for the new style tie rods last year....... It seems that was going to be the biggest problem with the new style? Thanx!

You can always take a torch and heat the shifter up and bend it to where you want also

MAKE SURE YOU GET A QUALITY U JOINT replacement.! or you will get to do it again shortly. Anything from China sucks

Might as well consider a G56 too?

I have seen both axles sold as pairs for less than 800 bucks. In my opinion for a conversion that might be the most EZ way to go. The beauty of this you could choose a different ration at the same time. The plastic fenders will bolt right up (drill the holes)

Weight that the engine does not have to turn is powered gain and fuel mileage savings. You have to know Detroit would NEVER install these unless it was to some advantages. I this case its not money savings for them. The Unsprung weight and lighter drive train components is always the way to go.

Every turn, every bearing, every set of splines is a resistance.