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Thumpmeister

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About Thumpmeister

  • Rank
    Needs to ride more...
  • Birthday 12/25/1983

Contact Methods

  • AIM
    HtJock1
  • MSN
    XR650Rider@hotmail.com
  • Website URL
    http://www.facebook.com/cwhiteman1
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    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Arlington, WA
  • Interests
    Trucks, bikes, jetskis... Anything w/ a motor, or anything that gets my blood flowing.

Recent Profile Visitors

1,241 profile views
  1. Hey Mike!!! Yeah, long time man, still around! Always trying something weird, like this current project. Sold the Scotty Motorhome a few years ago, tried a Winnebago View, really liked the size, but ended up towing a trailer everywhere I went. In response to swapping the frame, your comment got me thinking... First the frame swap, but that wouldn't work, or even come close; the frames are WAY different, not to mention the E450 chassis the motorhome sits on really is significantly thicker, larger, and definitely longer. Then I started thinking, what if I just swapped the front, pretty much from the cab forward? That's really what I want, is everything from the cab forward. Then that would require cutting the chassis on each rig, and mending them together. At that point, I figured that the engine swap would still be a better option. I think having to mend two frames together, then cutting the cab to fit the motorhome coach, and sealing it all up so it doesn't leak would end up being more work than the drivetrain swap. Then again, the wiring might lend me to think otherwise when the time comes. I was hoping to get the tranny done for around $3000. I don't need a high horsepower sled puller application, I just need something that will hold up to the weight and just a little higher power than stock. I've heard of guys getting it done for around that much, but that was a little while ago, and didn't know if anyone might have any connections to a local tranny builder or shop who does diesel builds like this. Thanks guys!!!
  2. I've actually scrounged around online quite a bit at this point, but you're actually the second person to recommend Diesel Outfitters in Arlington. Maybe I'll give him a call, pick his brain a bit. I've also chatted with the guys at Destroked, only to find out they don't really do vans. I also chatted with one person at Diesel Conversion Specialists, and found out they DO vans, but they don't have much in the way of parts, mostly just because its not a super popular conversion. However, they do have motor mounts, and a couple other parts, from what I could tell from the guy I talked to. Which is a good start, more than where I'm at now. Mostly I'm just trying to find some local resources, and see who might be willing to help. I'll try Mike at Diesel Outfitters too, maybe he'll have some good info.
  3. Are people still active in this forum? I posted this in the Cummins Forum, and on the 4btswaps forum, but I would really like to have some local info and support, maybe some input on where to go or who to talk to for resources? I've waded through a lot of other forums that have documented similar swaps, found one on Pirate 4x4 that was helpful, but I wanted to see if anyone here might be able to help. Here's the VERY basics. I want to take the entire drivetrain (engine, tranny, transfer case, intercooler, cooling system, etc.) out of a 2004.5 with a 48RE and a electric shift transfer case, and put it in a 2004 E450 Bigfoot Motorhome with the boat anchor V10. Now, I know it CAN be done, I just want to know what kind of nightmare I'm in for. I've read many different E Series conversions, and have talked to MGMETALWORKS in Oregon about his 6.7 his dropped in an E350. Also, I plan to eventually convert the motorhome into a 4x4 using the UJoint Offroad conversion. It looks like the Dodge transfer case output shaft and the SuperDuty front axle have the front drive shaft on the drivers side. Plus, I made sure that the Dodge I picked up has the electronic shift transfer case, so no having to hog a hole in the floor of the motorhome for the shifter. Here's what I know so far. Diesel Conversion Specialists sell motor mounts, but thats about it. I think they also said I can send both the wiring harnesses off to them so I can have them work together. Other than that though, a lot will be custom, including the rear tranny and transfer case mounts, drive shaft, etc. I also plan to do a very mild build. I installed a set of 30% over injectors in my other truck, an early 04 with an NV5600, and it made a pretty good difference. I plan to do the same here, but I also plan on installing a 2nd gen manifold kit so getting the downpipe in will be easier, and hopefully not run into the doghouse. I don't plan on doing any other motor mods; my goal is RELIABILITY and FUEL MILEAGE. Along with that, I need to rebuild the tranny to match. My early 04 is the NV5600, so working on the 48RE is pretty foreign to me. I need to find out what I need to make it reliable, and able to take the weight of the motorhome. Also, where in WA could I take to get it rebuilt and NOT cost a fortune. My biggest hangups right now are all the ancillary components; power steeting, brakes, A/C, cruise control, and the BIGGEST part, which will be the wiring to make it all work together in the Ford Chassis. Would I be better to try to use the factory dodge harness, or use standalone harnesses for the engine and tranny? And if I do that, will I still be able to get all the other factory Ford stuff to work? Since this IS a motorhome, I plan to be travelling a lot in the summer. Meaning that cruise control and A/C are going to be a big deal. Will it be difficult to get all that working together? Here's a link to the 4btswaps thread, and has a couple pics, since the NWBombers forum has a very small limit on the size of photos: https://www.4btswaps.com/threads/2004-5-6bt-into-ford-e450.109328/#post-1069627 I haven't started the swap yet, at this point I'm acquiring as much info as I can before I make the leap. I've wrenched on Dodge Diesel's for years, but have never done a swap. Is this going to be a nightmare? All suggestions are appreciated! Thanks!!!
  4. Well, if its an upgrade over stock, I'd like to put it in my 04. Is this an upgrade over stock? But I do agree with Shawn as well; I would hate to go through all the effort of putting in a clutch only to find out its no good. I mean, the price seems decent, I just don't want to spend the money AND the time to replace it, only to find out its no good...
  5. Seems like a good deal for a used clutch, but I don't know what to look for, or if this is a good deal or not. What do you guys think? https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/6147386072.html
  6. I have to sell my beloved motorhome to get a down payment on my house. TONS of work done, check out the craigslist ad. http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/rvs/5405979701.html
  7. I'm currently in the process of buying a house, so all my extra cash is going to the down payment to keep my monthly payments down. In fact, in order to have 20% down, I have to sell my Scotty motorhome, which I really didn't want to do. I had planned on keeping it, but its more important to have a lower monthly payment than to just have more toys. I'll include a link to the ad in the buy/sell area if anyone on here might be interested. Anyway, the reason I bring this up, is because theres no way I'll be able to afford any new injectors any time soon. The truck hasn't gotten any easier or harder to start lately. Sometimes it will fire right away, others it will take 1 or 3 more cranks before it fires. Is there an additive anyone has any luck with cleaning the injectors, maybe this will keep me from having to replace them any time soon? What about that Hot Shot Secret stuff?
  8. Not trying to be cheap here, but even 1500 is a LOT of money to be spending for injectors. I'm assuming if I were to buy reman injectors that it would be both the solenoid and pencil tip, correct? Well, I came across this other ad on craigslist, which is obviously missing some info, but if I bought these, would they work to replace my inectors, even though someone would have to attach the solenoid to the top of them? https://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/pts/5405266580.html
  9. GRW, how much did it run you to replace the injectors? Did you get new or reman? Where did you purchase from? And lastly, did you get stock replacements, or go bigger?
  10. These won't work on my early 04, will they? https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/5385411885.html
  11. I have a sneaking suspicion that the injectors are starting to go. The hard starting is hit and miss, and doesn't appear to have any pattern as to it being hot or cold. I don't notice any difference in power, the only difference I've noticed is the drop in mileage. I'm looking at a set of gauges; boost/egt/fuel pressure. I know that the glowshift ones have not been real popular, so I might end up with the Source Automotive ones, even though they are quite a bit more money. Couple questions, I've seen the prices for common rail injectors; not cheap. Suggestions; not expensive? On an unrelated note, I think my track bar is starting to get loose. If I plan on putting a levelling kit on eventually, would I be better getting an adjustable track bar, or should I just rebuild the end thats getting loose? I'm looking at getting a KORE of Thuren levelling kit; I'd like a little better ride quality, and after getting the spacers on my 94 (the cheapest levelling kit), I don't want to skimp on this one, as the spacer kit really killed then handling...
  12. Its only been harder to start about 4 times now. And when I say harder to start, I mean it only takes about two or three additional cranks to get it to fire, Im not sitting there cranking forever. And it doesnt happen every time, but I have noticed it happening more when the truck was colder, when its hot it fires right away. Originally I was thinking lazy injector too, because i had also noticed a slight bit more injector knock when it was cold, but it smoothed out after warming up. But I remember my dad had an 04.5 with over 200k on stock injectors, and that rig had a definite injector knock, not matter if it was cold or hot. It wasnt hard to start ever, but if you ran it next to mine, you would definitely notice it. It had that predetonation knock you would hear, a very slight one. But mine doesnt make the same knock that one had at all, and only does it when its cold. Warm, sounds normal, with the exception of that annoying third gen dash buzz you hear at 1800 rpm... Thanks guys, let me know what you think.
  13. Yeah, I changed the fuel filter this summer, with the recommended Baldwin filter. Truck has been running great, although the mileage has dropped a mile or two per gallon since the summer. I guess I could attribute it to winter blends, but does this side of the mountains carry winter blended fuels? Just wondering... Do I have an in tank pump?
  14. My third gen is an early 04 model with 166k on the clock. The last couple days its taken a few more cranks to get started. It still runs the same, but I think my fuel mileage has dropped a bit the last couple fill ups. I don't have any gauges on it yet, which I know I need to have for the fuel pressure namely. Anyway, I was talking with Mike earlier today, and he was telling me its a pretty good chance it might be my lift pump, which I know can be a common culprit on these rigs. I'm pretty sure its the stock pump. Anyway to check this, outside of getting a set of gauges? And how hard is it to replace the lift pump on these rigs?
  15. This is my custom 3D printed gauge cluster and cup holders. I wanted something that would hold all the gauges for the engine, and the WVO system, and would still function as a cup and 'stuff' holder. I also integrated a USB charger for my phone when I'm on the road. Another angle. WVO gauges (fuel level, oil temp, vacuum) on top, engine guages (boost, egt, trans) on bottom. The two rocker switches on top also control each one of the valves for switching between diesel and WVO. Any questions? Critiques? This system worked great for about 400 miles, and thats when I developed the leaks. Since the entire system is under vacuum due to the lift pump, I started seeing more and more bubbles in the lines. Eventually I got tired of trying to trace down every single leak, and put the aux pump in. It worked, but the pump isn't powerful enough under full load, so I plan on getting the Walbro pump stated above. I'm sure I'll add some more comments later, I mostly wanted to get this up on the site. This place has been a great source for information, so I thought it was time for me to submit some info finally.
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