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This is just a spot to put tools, chemicals and such you have used and found successful to share with others. 

 

Sites to ad, Vendors and such.

 

Hope it helps others.

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First trick I will give is a product.

 

For greying bumper plastic, is Stoner Trim Shine. You can find it at any parts store. Doesn't last forever but does make it black for a while.

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I order off Amazon and Griot's Website. Sometimes Griot's products are less on Amazon so shop them.

 

Lot's of U-tube video's out there on how to use their tools and products.

 

You will find the same support videos for Chemical Guys stuff also.

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These are two examples of the new claybar I've been talking about. Claim to do more times than normal clay. Faster than normal clay. And if you drop it, just wash it out. One is by hand and you can use well you wash.
The other is for an orbital polisher and speed shine as a lubricant. 95481513fc0a3cc409fc9670ad2aa57e.jpge33b09ec34c652a17f583fcda444ffc8.jpg

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I would say a minimum required tool is a 6" polisher.

 

I just added a 3" to my tools.  I have a couple of spots that will be aloto easier to bring back to a shine with a 3".

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This is a stainless steel polish I have never used before but had rave reviews. I plan to used it on the boat trailer fenders and tailpipes. 92369db0e46727df80d0d3729e341751.jpg

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A 6" polisher is on my short list of things to buy. I am going to try one of those synthetic clay pads 

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I just bought a nice 6” buffer/sander , si I just need to order that clay pad also 

 

Paul .. do you start with lube/ water on the pad .. keeping the area misted or wet with a microfiber loaded up with lube , IIRC  on the wax on wax off lesson you had us keep the clay bar wet from a bucket and also rinse the bar with same , use pad like that ? 

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Got a bunch of the boat taped and wrapped tomorrow start wet sanding and clay barring. Alot of the work in detailing is the prep. f53d7f973f82db85ccaa8f80f7778e30.jpgc3a6d23d12c6a9d982b14397213ad115.jpgb33e5f978083da72830a0f2f657972f4.jpg919e665c6a7adf08264d97c50faec4f2.jpge6b0dd3a9f61031e49967f6fdc462f43.jpg50e9a900f24708ab599ab1c0c54639fe.jpg8df2e8de8a5aeba2f19374d8bc552f16.jpg545cedeeba721a8dceca958bb9ad86fb.jpgf4f8745b1b2367a3d5f09a60c1008266.jpg

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If your wet sanding keeping the run off of the trailer or other things it will save you clean up time. ebad3d0a2c1708fcf542ef044a95c3f8.jpgc1b325cbfc98c2c5b7962adab62e7376.jpg

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So I did the set up Friday night. I did the wipe down, wet sand and claybar and then polished the wet sanded spots on Saturday.

 

I took Sunday off. It was just too much for my back and leg.

 

Next visit will be a few weeks out as I'm working and then Going to Arizona for 5 days and then working again.

 

So when I get back over it will go like this. Another complete wipe down.

 

Then #3 Medium cut 3M compund and a Mircro fiber cutting pad.  (Black/Red) Entire boat.

 

Then #3 Medium cut 3M Compound and a Correcting Foam Pad. (Orange) Entire boat

 

Then #1 Fine Cut 3M Compound and a Wax pad (Red) Entire boat.

 

Then #1 Fine Cut 3M Compound and a Finishing Pad (Black) Entire Boat.

 

This will all be over a few weekends.

 

After all of the above ti should be ready for Cerma Coat. (Hand Applied)

 

Remember you want it as perfect as you can get it, before applying Cerma Coat.

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20 hours ago, Big Russ said:

When you're done with your boat, I've got a Trophy that needs detailed too...  :D

 

 

That is why I'm posting info and instruction for you here.

 

If you want to come video me at work your welcome to do that and we can post it here.

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