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Albino99

2nd Gen Manual Hub Conversion, bye bye unit bearings!

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I have been planning this project out for a while and finally completed it a few days ago. Last Summer I purchased a 1997 Ford F350 SRW Dana 60 front axle to be my donor for the manual hub conversion. Why manual hubs?............ The manual hubs have much easier & cheaper bearings for servicing, having the ability to unlock approximately 120 pounds of drivetrain rotating mass, and  greater braking using the Ford twin piston caliper brakes (as compared to Dodge's single piston caliper). 

 

The conversion was a direct bolt on with some slight mechanical alterations  and allowed me to start fresh on all the "consumable" parts. First impressions after my test drive........... lighter steering feel and big improvement on braking! I'm pretty happy how this conversion came out. The biggest benefit for me was the brakes. 

 

I plan to keep my 2nd gen for a long time, so any upgrades that help longevity is a big help. 

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Great Idea !

How much trouble for mounting,  steering stuff and ETC ?

Transparently you also got the right gear ratio.

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11 minutes ago, thumper 549 said:

Great Idea !

How much trouble for mounting,  steering stuff and ETC ?

Transparently you also got the right gear ratio.

 

Mounting everything up wasn't too bad. The outer Ford stub shafts needed to be mated up to the stock Dodge inner shafts. In order to take advantage of the larger Ford brake rotors & twin piston calipers, I had to swap the Dodge Knuckle out for the Ford unit. Everything from the knuckle outward is 97' Ford. The steering linkage that attaches to the knuckle arms required shims/spacers to be inserted for the castellated nut to fasten correctly. I would recommend this mod to anyone who's looking for a better hub/brake assembly. It is my understanding that Ford only offered twin piston calipers on Dana 60's from 95-97. This really narrows the window for locating an axle donor. I got lucky and found a guy here in the Puget Sound who was selling the entire axle complete.  

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Upgraded aftermarket brakes and Yukon free spin kit.

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Locking hubs. b661e6890cef02e3e962bd66083ed5a7.jpgee975a6fd9b15d6d894b879283882fe9.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

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In case anyone else wants to do this swap the outters for the TTB Dana 50 are the exact same, it's a very strange axle with a D44 ring and pinion with D60 outters and of course the third u-joint in the center. Quite a few people swapped in the D60 and junked the TTB D50, so those parts are out there.

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On 12/29/2018 at 7:46 PM, thumper 549 said:

Sincerely wish there were pix to go with this and a step by step write up.

I bet it is  a great upgrade

 

Here is the link that inspired me to do the upgrade. If you read through all the comments, additional information is given for parts sourcing.

 

https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/dodge/874442-dodge-ram-2500-4x4-dana-60-hub-removal-converison-ford-knuckles.html

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I thought about doing this upgrade myself a few years ago.  It only makes sense!!

 

Nice work!

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Ok I am trying to pay attn here but ..confused.

I own a 1998.5  one ton

Which is the BEST  Ford axle to obtain for donor parts ?

Thanx for the help in advance .

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You can get the parts from any 92-97 F250/F350... The BEST Ford axle to get these parts from is from a 92-97 F350, I am pretty sure the 87-91 will work also but lets keep things simple. If you cannot find a 92-97 F350 front axle (they are hard to find, lots of rock crawlers want them) all of the parts from an F250 TTB50, spindles, wheel hubs, locking hubs, spindle nuts and calipers will work, then you'd need to source an outer knuckle and stub shaft for a Ford Dana 60.

 

From page 4 of that thread: V6TOY4X posted....

 

"Well I can confirm this is a direct bolt in swap and a great upgrade. I just did my 98 dually and got much improved braking, deleted the unit bearing and with the locking hubs I now have the option of 2low at the boat ramp and shift on the fly capability, plus the comfort of knowing that if the transfer case lever goes into 4wd you ARE in 4wd and not relying on a vaccum system to finish the job. I used a 97 SRW donor and had custom 3-3/4"dually spacers made from Fred at wheel adapters.com that indexed on the ford hub and piloted my existing dodge alcoas. The stock dodge spacers don't have enough meat on them to be bored out to clear the ford drive hub. I am 1/2" wider overall but you can't make the spacer any shorter or you will hit on the calipers. I used the ford steering as the dodge TREs were the right taper but a little to small and sucked to far up into the knuckles. The ford system works fine you just need a 3-1/2" longer tie rod adjuster-custom made or you can weld two stock adjusters together if you are comfortable with that, but the draglink was the correct length and fit the pitman arm perfectly."

 

I don't know if it will work as far as your wheels and maybe it is farther into that thread but if you could find a 92-97 F350 dually, you should be able to swap those parts directly over with minimal hassles as far as spacing and fitting your dually wheels??? So after all of that the 92-97 F350 is your best bet, but I would investigate further and see if the same year DRW parts will also work and save you time and hassles.
 

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Thanx a bunch!

For taking the time to write that all out and inform me.

Next brake / bearing job I know what i am doing!

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If you have time, that thread is like 28 pages long, but there is a ton of good information there, and there may be some other options for you that will help  :)

 

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