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Well I know a few of you have had an annoying front need clunk and I have been chasing mine for awhile now. All of the front suspension has been replaced including all bushings and wheel bearings. Everything is tight,no play anywhere that I can see. The only thing it leaves me with is the steering rack. And there is such a minut amount of play I don't see how it could be the problem. Maybe I have a bad bushing in the end of the rack and it's just loose enough to where it's hitting when a bump is encountered. Going down the highway it's doesn't make any noise at all unless it hit a sharp bump or pot holes. Inner and outer Tierod ends are new and tight. No loose calipers or brake parts. Strut mounts and bearings are new.

I guess the only thing to do is just swap it out. Maybe next month if I don't get pissed off at it and sell it fist!

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Have you checked the u-joint going from the steering column to the rack. I have seen the bolt come loose that clamps it to the splines. It makes all sorts of nasty noises. Tighten it up and the noise is gone.

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Had a clunk in the wifes van that drove me nuts. Took it to the dealer a few times, they couldnt figure it out either but replaced a strut. Then one day I go out to the garage for a cold one, stumble a bit and put my hand in the hood...clunk. The hood had just enough play that itd clunk on just the right bumps.

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Have you checked the u-joint going from the steering column to the rack. I have seen the bolt come loose that clamps it to the splines. It makes all sorts of nasty noises. Tighten it up and the noise is gone.

crap, I never gave that a thought because most of the noise is coming from the right side. I will check that tomorrow.

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Had a similar thing happen to me once and it was the battery loose in the tray. Ball joints get replaced?

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Had a similar thing happen to me once and it was the battery loose in the tray. Ball joints get replaced?

Yes, everything except the rack

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I'm going to put a piece of rubber between the strut cap and body to see if maybe it's bouncing up and down.

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I'm going to put a piece of rubber between the strut cap and body to see if maybe it's bouncing up and down.

You know those arent supposed to have any free play in them right??? LMAO! I couldnt resist.

 

Since we are on about clunks. I have some nasty rattles in my sunroof that have been driving me insane. Is there a kit to replace the seal around the glass? I would gladly dance a jig if I could get rid of those rattles.

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You know those arent supposed to have any free play in them right??? LMAO! I couldnt resist.

Since we are on about clunks. I have some nasty rattles in my sunroof that have been driving me insane. Is there a kit to replace the seal around the glass? I would gladly dance a jig if I could get rid of those rattles.

I wish I would have known that, I could have given you the sunroof assy I had.

 

Of the 5 Beetles I've owned and including Austin's there has always been a gap under the strut cap and none of them have made the noise mine does. I'm just trying to eliminate all the possibilities. Maybe the rubber ring around it is so hard these no more cushion to it.

Edited by livingez_123

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I know you said you replaced everything, but... just to clarify- did you replace the sway bar bushings? These will happily chime in when going straight and over bumps (and pot holes). Even though you say you're hearing it as though it's coming from the driver's side it's possible that it's happening on both sides and because you're (obviously) sitting in the driver's seat that side will be more acute sounding.

 

Strut bushings and bearings can get wonky during an install and if they're a bit off this may also result in some noises.

 

Is the sound a heavier or lighter clunk?

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What shocks/struts?

 

I've had issues with Konis, Koni Reds to be exact. Working through a vendor it was noted that they tend to trap some air and that the air needs to be purged: before installing- I suggested that perhaps Koni should make a note of this! In my limited experience (only two sets of Reds) it was the shocks (rears) that I had issues with.

 

Here's from my conversation with the vendor (after they talked with Koni):


To get the air out before install:
  1. Turn the shock upside down
  2. Compress it fully (take the tape off so you can get to the full stroke of the piston)
  3. Count to 5
  4. Turn it right side up
  5. Extend the piston fully.

You may have to do this two or three times, but it should clear the problem.

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I know you said you replaced everything, but... just to clarify- did you replace the sway bar bushings? These will happily chime in when going straight and over bumps (and pot holes). Even though you say you're hearing it as though it's coming from the driver's side it's possible that it's happening on both sides and because you're (obviously) sitting in the driver's seat that side will be more acute sounding.

 

Strut bushings and bearings can get wonky during an install and if they're a bit off this may also result in some noises.

 

Is the sound a heavier or lighter clunk?

Yes I did. And I'm hearing it more on the pass side.

It sounds like something is hitting on both compression and rebound.

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Yes I did. And I'm hearing it more on the pass side.

It sounds like something is hitting on both compression and rebound.

Its that socket you lost rattling in the fender. 😆😆😂😂
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Front sway bar end links and/or sway bar bushings.

Changed mine a month ago and irritating clunk gone,

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Control arm bushing are also very problematic in these cars. They are also a major contributor to front end clunking.

I have a set of Audi TT bushing on the shelf ready to go in. Just waiting for time and motivation to install.

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I'm just going to take it all apart Wednesday and look at everything...again!

 

ALL bushings have been replaced.

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The struts are Sachs sport. I've installed many sets with no issues.

 

While I don't like being overly paranoid about everything, there ARE such things as manufacturing defects/issues. Even the best manufacturers can spit out something that flies under the QA process/radar. Every manufacturer has their statistical curves. Assuming that one doesn't have a defective new part can lead to a lot of tail-chasing in cases where they have in fact gotten a hold of a defective new part. I have had ONE bad shock out of twelve that I recently installed (a Koni Red; rear shock [this one didn't self-correct] in which case the pain wasn't too bad). Anyway...

 

You should be able to isolate to one side or the other when up on a lift. Would hate to hear that you had to pull everything apart on both sides.

 

Perhaps take some quick resting measurements to see if one side is sitting differently than the other. I'd read where someone installed struts assemblies and found that they didn't match! (chased around a problem for some time- they didn't have ready access to tools, a relative did the work and there was a lot of finger pointing). I seem to recall that the anomaly was apparent in measurements.

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Well I put in a new set of poly strut mounts and the clunking appears to be gone. Time will tell if it really was the issue.

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