Jump to content
DieselBound

Newbie with first Dodge/Cummins, 2nd gen

Recommended Posts

Do the springs! The drivability will be so much better. Marks Smith’s post is exactly my experience also. If you don’t know what clutch you have, you will pretty soon....

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do the springs! The drivability will be so much better. Marks Smith’s post is exactly my experience also. If you don’t know what clutch you have, you will pretty soon....

As a 12 valve owner close to 25 years the most fun mod was 3k springs.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Debating on whether to post here or start a new thread...

 

Can I install 3k rpm IP springs with everything else (including fueling) being stock (newer stock clutch)? I'd really like to have a bit more room in the rpm range (dropping off around 2,250 rpm isn't good- my IDI could climb to 3,500 rpm; and, my VW TDIs run to 4,500 rpm).

Yes
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you don't turn up the fuel/boost, the 3k springs won't eat the clutch. It's the extra low end gruntfuel that does that :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, folks. Did a bit more reading and it seems like 4k GSK is OK as the engine won't be able to really eclipse the 3k rpm range due to fueling restrictions (no mods to fuel plate). Need to see what urgent things will need to be addressed before having this mod, but it certainly sounds like a no-brainer first step (and get me a little more legs).

 

The LUK was installed about 30k miles ago and is a stock replacement, not a higher end one.

 

For giggles I'm attaching the service records I got (PO didn't have anything, but I verified with him that he got th 60# exhaust springs installed when the exhaust brake was installed).

 

1994DodgeMaintenanceRecordsPage1.jpeg

1994DodgeMaintenanceRecordsPage2.jpeg

 

Crud, images won't display, so here's links:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ftl5gangznhc3rd/1994DodgeMaintenanceRecordsPage1.jpeg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/frxk6cok1fppa4u/1994DodgeMaintenanceRecordsPage2.jpeg

Edited by DieselBound

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Follow-up on the hitch, it's a Draw Rite.

 

After fixing a bunch of trailer wiring issues (new socket and plug; clean up crappy wiring; fix a broken wire on the trailer- it was just working!) put my utility trailer in to use hauling a bunch of straw. Exhaust brakes is nice; didn't have time to futz around with testing the trailer's electric brakes. The truck backs real nice (compared to my F250). I'd post a picture but for some reason, after my initial post, it's not working.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Researching on what new (still in-box) frontend suspension bits came with the truck and here's what I found it/them to be:

 

https://www.synergymfg.com/Synergy-03-12-Dodge-Truck-Heavy-Duty-Steering-Kit-p-30964.html

 

Will I be good to go with this/these? I was told that one of the ball joints is needing to be replaced, so figure I'd be needing to do ball joints at the same time as this went in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That kit should be perfectly fine. It is still the inverted "T" design as factory (mostly) was inverted "Y". That kit seems to be pretty good. There were some other kits floating around that used heim joints. Those were not so good.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great upgrade. But you might need new pitman arm. Been there done that.

^ Good point Pete!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure which PO installed the Red Head box (not listed in that service record so I'm thinking that the last PO was responsible, which would mean it has less than 15k miles- I could check with him), but might that have also included a replacement of the Pitman?

 

Probably safest bet is to just give Diesel Outfitters a heads-up on all this and see what they find. Truck will be going there in another week.

 

UPDATE: Contacted PO. He said that he [had] installed (in addition to the Pac Brake and air bags) the steering box and ball joints on the steering rods (so less than 15 miles on these), but no new Pitman.

Edited by DieselBound

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you plan to modify the fueling on this truck, I recommend doing this yourself under the supervision of someone that has successfully completed the procedure a few times on their own. Learning about how the AFC works, as well as the delivery system of the P7100 will save you a ton of $$. It seems like a lot to grasp at first, but all of the "bolt on" stuff, like this, is just so easy to complete on your own.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you plan to modify the fueling on this truck, I recommend doing this yourself under the supervision of someone that has successfully completed the procedure a few times on their own. Learning about how the AFC works, as well as the delivery system of the P7100 will save you a ton of $$. It seems like a lot to grasp at first, but all of the "bolt on" stuff, like this, is just so easy to complete on your own.

 

For sure! I don't have time to break and fix things. I might just have Diesel Outfitters do it, depending on all the issues they discover: if there aren't many (I know the timing cover's gasket is leaking and that this is probably something I should have addressed ASAP, even though it is claimed that the KDP was done) then I may just tell them to go ahead and do it. Most of my mechanical activities, vehicles, evolve around VW TDIs (specifically MKIV ALHs); I'm stretched fairly thin; my/this truck is, as was my F250, really only for limited use, so not a lot of wear and tear expected to come up such that it would require much wrenching on my part.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Diesel Outfitters finished their inspection and here's what they found:

 

a.) Track bar bushings are worn out causing steering play and the track bar jam nut is loose. Replace bushings, re-adjust, and tighten jam nut. Front sway bar links need replaced as well.

b.) Has an active oil leak at the vacuum pump / power steering pump assembly. Re-seal vacuum pump.

c.) The front output seal on the transfer case is leaking. Requires further diagnostics to determine if it's just a seal or if there is damage to the transfer case.

d.) The front drive shaft CV joint is worn out and should be replaced. Recommend a reman drive shaft.

e.) Has exhaust leaks at the turbo charger and down pipe. The TC need removed and a new gasket installed, missing hardware replaced. The down-pipe needs replaced to properly mate up to the exhaust brake.

f.) Recommend verifying the KDP has been tabbed.

 

Apparently the PO kludged the Pac Brake install.

 

About $2,300. Another $378 for serp belt, hoses and coolant and KDP stuff. Not costed out is the transfer case (unknown what's the cause of problems) or the CV joint. I could do the front end stuff (have the parts already).

 

The transfer case is a big unknown. I'm wondering if I should have this deal with first and see how it ends up. I didn't buy the truck to be dumping a ton of money into, but I need it to be reliable in which case I wouldn't look to let things ride. If I take a big hit on the transfer case then I might end up having to do most of the other work as well.

 

Thoughts?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Austin, is the factory seal a single lipped one and, perhaps, a replacement is double-lipped? (My research on vacuum pump seals turns up a story such as this.)

 

DO said that the T-case fluid level was down about 1/2, in which case this would have to be a pretty significant leak. Records (see my above links) show that the shop mentioned that (with 157k on the clock) the two front U-joints needed to be replaced. Could any of this be indicative of a more extensive issue with the T-case? Am I barking up the wrong trees here? (never spent any time working on 4wd drivetrain bits)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Austin, is the factory seal a single lipped one and, perhaps, a replacement is double-lipped? (My research on vacuum pump seals turns up a story such as this.)

 

DO said that the T-case fluid level was down about 1/2, in which case this would have to be a pretty significant leak. Records (see my above links) show that the shop mentioned that (with 157k on the clock) the two front U-joints needed to be replaced. Could any of this be indicative of a more extensive issue with the T-case? Am I barking up the wrong trees here? (never spent any time working on 4wd drivetrain bits)

I am not sure but it is possible.

 

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Heres a good kit for the vacuum pump. I bought the one with the replacement vanes but it wasnt really necessary to replace them. Lot of good parts on this website, you can trust that theyll be quality.

 

http://www.fostertruck.com/rod-end-for-solenoid-snaps-on-ball-6mm-x-1-00mm-thread-female-428.html

 

That is cool, I didn't know he was in WA. He also has a amazon page in case anyone is interested in ordering from him via Amazon. I just ordered this kit from his Amazon page myself.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Reporting back...

 

I replaced the front end bits.  The Synergy stuff is MASSIVE compared to the stock pieces: the tie rod weighs more than both the original drag link and tie rod.  Had to buy a new stabilizer as the Synergy uses a through-bolt whereas the original has a stud (spent some time trying to get the  stud out but gave up).  Most of the work was in adjusting things: first time setting toe and I got it nearly spot-on, close enough.

 

Diesel Outfitters took care of all the  other things.  The vacuum pump was replaced (reman one) because the original(?) vacuum pump was a 3-piece and (was told that) these don't have seals available.  The KDP had been done: PO wasn't blowing smoke; so, probably can assume he was also telling the truth about the 5th gear nut fix being done as well.  Had the belts, rollers and hoses changed out since it was all being handled anyway: now I don't have to worry about any of it for quite some time.

 

I can tell a slight improvement, but things weren't really all that bad yet.  There's a bit of steering wander, though I don't know what good steering on this generation of truck is supposed to be like: I'm spoiled because my cars' suspensions are all newer and very tight.  I'll look to follow-up on this later.

 

Installed a new trailer brake controller (Tekonsha 90195) as the existing one didn't seem to be working (and it gave no visual feedback on settings).  Pulled the knee bolster panel off and saw a huge tangle of wires😱  Not sure how people can wire stuff up so crappily!  Alarm system and aftermarket stereo introduced a LOT of wires.  Did the best I could without really chopping and re-running stuff.  And in the engine compartment there was also several add-on wires that were just hastily "routed."  Cleaned those up as well.

 

At some future point I'll look to install some 4k springs in the IP.  Perhaps end of Fall.

 

I'm pretty happy with this truck.  For being almost 25 years old it's pretty tight and rattle-free.  Of course, the 12v is sweet, fires right up and is smooth and strong.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sounds like your setup very well now! 

Congratulations 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sounds like very good follow up on PM services needed , one lil thought to pass on does this truck have steering wheel tilt ? if it does when you get a chance check it [joint] for play also as they do wear or get loose from many thing including using the wheel to pull oneself up onto the seat .

 

also FYI [sorry if you have read or are aware] many of the second generation trucks have poor steering from the factory and are RUT hunters do to the geometry and much of what you have done tightens this issue but doesn't cure it unfortunately. a steering box stabilizer helps but again doesn't cure it all. it's a brace that goes attached between the frame rails and adds a bearing that picks up the bottom of the box to stop frame flexing/box flexing. some trucks had great factory steering and there seems to be no rhyme nor reason as to why some had good or bad steering.

My 2001 from the factory had the worst steering I have ever felt of any car/truck I have owned over all my driving career .. I have spent many a $$ to improve this issue and it is many times better but it being a dually is still to some degree a RUT hunter although much improved on good roads.

Edited by GTroyer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gary, I'm scratching my head trying to think if it's got the adjustable steering column or not- as I sit here I cannot say 🤔  I'm wanting to say that it does.  But... I'll check and see if it's applicable.  Yes, it does have a steering stabilizer bar (installed along with the Red Head steering box by PO, I figure).

 

Kind of wondering whether a more robust steering stabilizer would help.  I had just installed a new stock one (original didn't work with the new drag link).

 

Steering just seems to be a bit tiring.  Granted, it's not a car (and not my Golf, which has newer and tight/nice suspension and nearly drives itself), but I can't really fathom that any truck rolling off the factory line would steer like this.  My 93 F250 wandered a bit, and the suspension was amply worn out (though still align-able), but I don't recall it feeling this tiring to drive.

 

When I have time I'm going to double-check everything for slop (especially the pitman arm and ball joints).

 

And in case it matters (did not realize it until doing some research just now), the front end bits I installed were a Y to T conversion.  My understanding is that this ought to be a substantial change/upgrade.

 

Was out dragging my 16 1/2' utility trailer, moving the wife's son's family (up in Vancouver- can't say I enjoyed running 41' of truck+trailer around such congested roadways), and the truck got the job done, though I really would have liked to have had more power.  And, while up there I picked up a driver's sport headlight fixture (Craigslist): excellent condition: had to venture in to Chinatown- I think I was the largest moving mass around!  Now need to pick up a passenger side one and I'll do that conversion.

Edited by DieselBound
Note change from Y to T steering.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Verified I have a tilt steering wheel.  Will check all for signs of play. (on the back burner for now as I have lots on my plate)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×