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Can someone refresh my memory, is the bell housing and trans one piece or two?

 

Also, how well do the stock clutch hydro's do with a SouthBend clutch?

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They are 2 piece for sure since the body is cast steel and the bell housing is aluminum.

 

The stock clutch hydraulics lasted a couple years on my rig with several Southbend Clutches. I have Southbend hydraulics now. The stock ones finally gave up.

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I have the standard in my truck, never had a reason to adjust the pedal position... of course I have the electric adjustable pedal position in my truck so it isn't necessary.

 

I think if I didn't have adjustable pedals I would like the idea of being able to dial in the position of the pedal at rest. So I guess you could say, personnel preference on this one.

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The story is about a year after they bought the truck from me they grenaded the trans. So they bought a SouthBend ofe for it and the stock hydraulics couldn't get the clutch to release. So they just put a Luk pro gold in it. Fast forward about 8 years and the clutch hub let go. So they have this South bend sitting in a box and I side just get new hydraulics and I will put the new clutch in. So I have a new TO bearing, pilot bearing and fork along with the new hydraulics on order. So as soon as it gets in I will change it out.

Also how many times can you turn the flywheel before it starts to effect the clutch engagement point?

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The story is about a year after they bought the truck from me they grenaded the trans. So they bought a SouthBend ofe for it and the stock hydraulics couldn't get the clutch to release. So they just put a Luk pro gold in it. Fast forward about 8 years and the clutch hub let go. So they have this South bend sitting in a box and I side just get new hydraulics and I will put the new clutch in. So I have a new TO bearing, pilot bearing and fork along with the new hydraulics on order. So as soon as it gets in I will change it out.

Also how many times can you turn the flywheel before it starts to effect the clutch engagement point?

The flywheel is flat. You can turn it all you want. The hydraulics will adjust. The throw of the hydraulics in the slave cylinder have plenty of room.

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i have found that i need to add a washer behind the pivot ball in order to get the clutch to disengage

 

I've had to do that when converting from a dual Mass to single Mass flywheel on some Vw's

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Hey Ben! Does he shifter come of the same way as a nv4500? If I remember it just pulled straight up and off the shift post.

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Yup, 4 bolts and pops out straight up. You will need a 10mm wrench/socket.

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I started this today, I have everything removed but the bell housing bolts. I will have to finish dropping it out Thursday, get the flywheel surfaced and put it back together Friday.

 

 

So I noticed that the SouthBend hydraulics have a remote Reservoir, where is a good place to mount it?

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I started this today, I have everything removed but the bell housing bolts. I will have to finish dropping it out Thursday, get the flywheel surfaced and put it back together Friday.

 

 

So I noticed that the SouthBend hydraulics have a remote Reservoir, where is a good place to mount it?

Same spot as the factory reservoir.

 

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

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So I noticed that the SouthBend hydraulics have a remote Reservoir, where is a good place to mount it?

Couple sheet metal screws in the firewall just above the slave cylinder. The hose isn’t that long so you don’t have a lot of options. If I get a chance I can take a picture of mine as I had to do the same.

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Same spot as the factory reservoir.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

The OEM res is on the mc.

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Couple sheet metal screws in the firewall just above the slave cylinder. The hose isn’t that long so you don’t have a lot of options. If I get a chance I can take a picture of mine as I had to do the same.

Kind of what I was thinking

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Well, you know things are bad when you pull the trans back from the engine and parts start to fall out! Springs and bits of springs what a mess. Flywheel surfaced tomorrow and a new clutch pivot and fork being picked up along with a new rear main seal from Cummins. I don't have much time in this right now, maybe 2hrs, the joys of a 2wd.

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Well, you know things are bad when you pull the trans back from the engine and parts start to fall out! Springs and bits of springs what a mess. Flywheel surfaced tomorrow and a new clutch pivot and fork being picked up along with a new rear main seal from Cummins. I don't have much time in this right now, maybe 2hrs, the joys of a 2wd.

I have pulled a few clutches and had stuff fall out.

 

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

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The first time I had this apart was about 250k ago and I had ball bearings bouncing off the floor!

 

In all reality, I should just pull the pan and front cover and reseal the whole bottom end.

Edited by livingez_123

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The first time I had this apart was about 250k ago and I had ball bearings bouncing off the floor!

 

In all reality, I should just pull the pan and front cover and reseal the whole bottom end.

I had that happen last year. I would do the rear main seal atleast.

 

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

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I had one having issues in Indiana got Home to Boise it fell to pieces when I pulled it my lucky week.

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I figured WTH, the trans is out the rear main is off so the pan came off next! It's much easier to pull the pan with no trans in the way. So I guess the reassembly will have to wait until Tuesday. On a positive note, the new SouthBend hydros went in super easy.

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