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Mad Bomber

What to do? I really need help

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I have a 2001 6speed and a 53 block today found a leak in the passenger side. With us now on a fixed income I just don't know how to afford a new block. Any where you know to get a differant one? We just got our trailer last fall and now the truck won't pull it. Completely distraught and don't know what to do with tears. Thanx Eric

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Could always bring extra coolant with you and fill it up every day. Might last a long time and not get worse.

Get towing insurance on you truck and trailer, cheap though most indurance co. Then you can get back home, or somewhere close.

Worse that could happen is you need a new engine, and you are already there, you really don't have much to loose.

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There is also a product called blue devil. I ONLY recommend it when there is nothing to loose. It is a clear liquid, and it will form a glass like surface at the leak point (and other places). You MUST follow the instructions to the letter, but I have fixed a few blown headgaskets with it.

Again, this is only if you have nothing to loose by trying it.

I do not consider this a permanent fix, but there were times when the owner did not have the money for a proper repair, it did keep them on the road.

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How about JB weld? That stuff can fix lots of things. Grind a V in the crack and drill a hole at each end of the crack so it won't travel. Fill it up and let it set.

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I am afraid the block has to be changed. You can try some bandaids but the fact of the matter is nothing is going to last long or be reliable for long trips IMHO.

 

It is probably going to be cheaper to find a motor from a running truck and just swap the whole long block. I will keep my eyes open for a candidate.

 

Sorry Eric. No one deserves this situation.

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FYI they don't leak much you can run it long time. There's a 24v rolled truck in rexburg id for $1800 listed on Facebook keep motor part truck break even

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Interesting idea Dave. figures you would come up with that.

i have a 215 motor than ran with a foot long crack in the block for years, just topped off the coolant. thats why jb and evens coolant will work for the long haul

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And you all think I'm crazy.

Think? lol

J/K

 

I sure hope this idea works. So how do you keep the pressure down?

Edited by Scotty_

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Think? lol

J/K

 

I sure hope this idea works. So how do you keep the pressure down?

take the rubber off the pressure cap, you just want to cover the hole in the rad to keep stuff out of it

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take the rubber off the pressure cap, you just want to cover the hole in the rad to keep stuff out of it

Simple. Thats great.

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Eric just a quick question. Are you sure it's a cracked block? The leak is not possibly leaking anywhere else? Just thinking is a very good idea to rule out all other possibilities.

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My 97s HG started to leak in TX, I bought the lowest psi radiator cap I could find and drove it home that way, it still leaked but it was very manageable with minimal coolant loss.

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I've tried about all of said things besides stitching. Had two 53 blocks (well it wasn't a 53 after the guy ground it off to sell it to me) several things last a little while but nothing lasts with pressure. I successfully ran my last crack block with it cracked almost all the way down the side if the block by getting it really hot in gear stalling the converter then adding water and 6-8 eggs with pepper and that sealed it up about a week at a time. I ran with a radiator cap that had the lever to release the pressure and just left it propped up. Did this for 6 months when I was broke in the oil field. Ultimately ended up getting a 56 series block that is noticeably thicker. In my opinion I would warn you that whatever you invest on other than a new block or engine will be moneybags the wrong direction. I think Bob V mentioned liquid glass and if your leak is still small that will work good for a bit. I think nothing holds because of the flex that the block has from heat expansion or torquing not sure. But try it why not. We once had a big cam cummins freeze and crack the block we drilled and tapped 4 holes ground the block smoother and bolted a plate to the side of the engine and that lasted for 25 years until I lost track of the engine and had been in 3 different trucks.

A repair is fine if your in town and around bombers but I wouldn't take another look g trip or snowbird without a block. I bet we can find something for you.

 

I did notice several dodge wretched trucks at the auction yard when dropping my son of at flight school down by Boeing Field I think it's Seattle public auto auction but it's next to aviation high school by Boeing Field.

 

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

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There is also a product called blue devil. I ONLY recommend it when there is nothing to loose. It is a clear liquid, and it will form a glass like surface at the leak point (and other places). You MUST follow the instructions to the letter, but I have fixed a few blown headgaskets with it.

Again, this is only if you have nothing to loose by trying it.

I do not consider this a permanent fix, but there were times when the owner did not have the money for a proper repair, it did keep them on the road.

sounds like sodium silicate, are as it used to be known, waterglass. It was sold for block and radiator repair. Not sure if it is readily available any more.

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If I were to put the stuff in the rad like liquid glass won't that clog the rad after new engine? Is it better just to buy a short or long block or a block and fill it with new parts? I have seen blocks for 700 but how much for all the parts. I have a cam that improved milage and a head that is o ringed and better springs. Or should I start all over. I also belive since I don't have a usable core I have a core charge to pay.

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If I were to put the stuff in the rad like liquid glass won't that clog the rad after new engine? Is it better just to buy a short or long block or a block and fill it with new parts? I have seen blocks for 700 but how much for all the parts. I have a cam that improved milage and a head that is o ringed and better springs. Or should I start all over. I also belive since I don't have a usable core I have a core charge to pay.

It doesnt work that way. It is still available.

http://store.gobdp.com/radiator-block-sealer-00205/

Like I said before you don't have anything to loose except the cost of the product.

MAKE SURE YOU FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS EXACTLY.

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