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Soon as JB is able I'm gonna get the truck pulled back to the garage and get started on everything. Trying to decide if I should lift the engine and drop the pan or not.

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JB came by last night, we got the truck pulled back to the garage. The rest of my parts should be here tomorrow. The XDP Cat filter adapter was on backorder until late January or early February. So I cancelled that and ordered Fleece filter delete and Fleece stand alone fuel filter, more expensive but they actually had them in stock. Now that Xmas is all out of the garage and all over the house I can start on the truck. Oh, I also sold my Carli front diff cover and a couple hundy for a set of power wagon wheels, no more steel spare and if I want to carry two spares I can. When I get a new set of tires I'll take the two best of the ones on the truck and they'll be spares.

 

 

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Little update, and YES HOSS I KNOW YOU HAVE A WARM SHOP LOL.... 

 

Jacked up the engine, got the oil pan and sump out, got that all cleaned up and no metal parts in the bottom. Was waiting for it to get colder so there was less water under the truck so I can get back at it. The exhaust has been hanging there split in two draining oil for awhile now... holy crap that muffler holds a lot of oil lol. But everything is cleaned up and ready to go back together, next drop the tanks ect. LOL first time I jacked the engine up I wasn't gaining any clearance, then it donned on me the springs were unloading. So I ratchet strapped the crossmember to the front axle and started over, now lots of room.

Edited by megacabcummins

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Don't hate I just know how much it sucks laying under a truck in a wet gravel driveway. 

You have helped me out a lot over the years and I am happy to return the favor! 

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Zero hate brother :) LOL was working on it today on our snow day, and lo and behold the snow we did not get showed up. That was fun... Trying to drill a mounting hole for the sliders while the down tube was not in the way, stupid drill bit dropped inside the frame... SO enough of that, just gonna do some nice tacks on the remaining 3. Got the gasket scraped off the block, kinda strange doing it upside down lol. OH and I found more turbo pieces LOL It's the gift that keeps on giving. But things can start going back together now.

 

Once I get the truck back running it'd be awesome if I could do the fuel system up at your place. I need to drop the tank ect ect.

 

 

Edited by megacabcummins

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So truck is running, once the pan was on things went much easier. On one hand doing the pan without pulling the engine is nice, on the other hand it sucks laying in the dirt doing it LOL... Or water in my case. So just a few things to button up, air intake, down pipe and exhaust, hydro steering needs to be rebled (I had to drain it to move it). I also need to figure out a new tie rod mount for the hydro system, mine loosened up because of the negative force applied. But that should be easy.

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Got the Airbox ect back in, the new cool hose I bought is too big, smashes right into the oil filter. So the stock one went back on for now. Down pipe is going to JB today for repairs, also going to work out a new clamp for the hydro steering... Then I can get up to Hoss's for the fuel system. 

 

It's getting there.... finally... 

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Guess I need an update in here.... Everything went back together, truck started and ran fine. Then all of a sudden the oil pressure dropped. Shut the truck off and cleared the code, started it, ran for about 30 seconds and then the pressure dropped again. Searched and found out it was most likely the oil pressure switch, but it could be the oil pressure bypass or the oil pressure regulator. Saturday I pulled the oil filter head and oil cooler, cleaned it all up and replaced the oil pressure bypass and oil pressure regulator, and all the gaskets and got it back in with no issues. Then I figured since I have the alternator out I should just do the rebuild, I bought the kit from Geno's and had it on the shelf for awhile. The brushes were almost gone so it was due. I had to run up to Napa Arlington to get the service tools for the alternator pulley, SER756 in case you need it. Lots of heat was needed to free up the big bearing, factory bearing race lock. Sunday I needed to replace the oil pressure switch and put the alternator back in. Alternator was easy, that oil pressure switch connector is a pain in the rear to put it nicely. I fought and fought with it, even ended up pulling the intake horn off. Still could not get the little red tab to slide. Finally looked it up on Google and there was a post on DTR, OP said that he just snapped his off since he was replacing it anyway.... duh. Snapped it off, flipped the connector over and finally got the little red tab to disengage, replaced the switch and got the intake horn back on. My ARB manifold was bolted to the intake horn, it was just a quick and dirty thing JB and I did before our trip to the Whipsaw. So I made a new bracket off the side of the intake, came out pretty good.  After all that, no oil pressure... Now I have to replace the oil pump, Thoroughbred Diesel (it was on a 2nd gen not a 3rd but close enough) had a good video on it, should take much less time than I expected...  The upside, all the oil parts are gonna be new, downside.... there could be more damage inside  :(  If that's the case I'll just order up a shortblock

 

Part numbers from Cummins NW

3947287: pressure regulator plunger
3925009: Compression Spring
3929457: O Ring Seal
3936365: Pressure Relief Valve
2830559: Oil Cooler Core Gasket
3974127: Filter Head Gasket

 

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The oil pump is super easy one the front timing cover is off. 4 bolts and it pops out. It would be very helpful if you have a good fan clutch wrench that uses an air hammer.

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1 hour ago, stroketeck said:

that is very strange for a gear pump to loose pressure all of a sudden, i would stuff a manual pressure gauge on it 


 

He already did. Just forgot to mention it.

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Yup, got a manual gauge. I found a couple people with '06s on TDR that had their pump gear shear off. So my thought was the turbo let go, the pump was working fine until it dispersed all the oil, then took itself out. Only reason I say that is how much oil was pumped out of the oil pan into the exhaust, unless crank case pressure would do that. Then maybe the pump let go and then the turbo???? Either way, the engine is getting a new oil pump now. 

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3 hours ago, megacabcummins said:

Yup, got a manual gauge. I found a couple people with '06s on TDR that had their pump gear shear off. So my thought was the turbo let go, the pump was working fine until it dispersed all the oil, then took itself out. Only reason I say that is how much oil was pumped out of the oil pan into the exhaust, unless crank case pressure would do that. Then maybe the pump let go and then the turbo???? Either way, the engine is getting a new oil pump now. 

 

I changed an oil pump a couple of years back, that the idler gear had seized to the fixed shaft. In this case the shaft spun in the pump housing and continued to work so no damage was done. Since the shaft holding the gear was loose, all the gear lash went away. It sounded like a small block v8 with timing gears. Got really lucky with that one.

 

Your case has me a bit perplexed. It builds pressure for a very short time then lets go. If I had to guess it sounds like the press fit of the drive gear let go. Similar to what happened with Paige's water pump. But who knows. There is only one way to find out.

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True enough, at least I'll be able to say I changed out an oil pump. Gonna stop at CumminsNW and get the parts today. 

 

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Parts should be here today or tomorrow. So dumb question, if the pump appears to be fine but I swap it out anyway what else could be the issue if there is still no oil pressure? 

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I'm late to the game and don't know what I'm talking about with diesels, but..... :lol: Is there a pressure relief valve that could be causing this?

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39 minutes ago, SMOKN05 said:

I'm late to the game and don't know what I'm talking about with diesels, but..... :lol: Is there a pressure relief valve that could be causing this?

Yes. In the filter housing if I remember right. 

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Oil pressure relief valve was changed, as was the oil pressure bypass ( o-ring, spring and plunger ) and the oil pressure switch (sensor).

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Thought I'd throw an update up here, with help from Hoss, Dave and Ben I've been slowly working on this amid other projects. I replaced the oil pump and the crank seal on the front cover, set the seal to 6mm instead of 5mm from the front of the cover, easier than installing a wear sleeve (Thanks to Ben for that tip). Cleaned everything up and reinstalled the front cover, sealed the front cover up with Motorcraft TA-31, that stuff just works awesome. Got everything back together and no oil pressure. Dave had me make sure the oil filter was full and add another half gallon of oil. Still no pressure, so he had me add the other half gallon and jack the back of the truck up (to cover up the p/u tube junction with oil) still no oil pressure. Shut the truck off and closed the hood, contemplated the best way to burn the truck to the ground to collect the insurance money. Sunday since the weather was so nice I went out and started in on pulling the pan again. Last time I jacked the truck up the ground was still solid, with all the rain ect it had softened up and the truck started to lean. Grabbed an old 2X12 I had and made some new jack pads, far more stable and they are taller so the jack stand don't have to extend as much. Raised the engine back up (remembered to strap the axle to the frame this time) and had the pan off fairly quickly. First thing I noticed was the new pan gasket had let oil seep through, it wasn't leaking yet but I did not like what I saw. The p/u tube gasket was wet on both sides, but both bolts were tight, right there I am thinking this is the culprit for no oil pressure. Then I was checking the gasket surface on the block and noticed broken pieces on top; of the stiffener plate. I grab those and can't see anywhere they may have come from. So I pulled the stiffener and didn't find anymore pieces. Dave is pretty certain they were from the blown turbo, and they just happen to be at the outlet for the turbo drain, which I am going to need to pull to make sure there are no pieces lodged in there. Got the pan all cleaned up for the new gasket, ordered new ones from Cummins NW, no more Amazon gaskets for this guy, even Dave said ONLY Cummins gaskets EVER. While I am waiting on the gaskets, and the new torx bolt for the stiffener plate I semi stripped and new starter bolts, figured it was a good time to rebuild the starter since I rebuilt the alternator. I had a kit from Larry B's on the shelf so that's what I get to do when I get home today. On the upside, I have a new oil pressure switch, oil pressure bypass, oil pressure regulator, spring and plunger, oil pump and front cover crank seal, and new gaskets on the pan and p/u tube, and fresh seal on the front cover. None of those needed to be replaced it turns out, I was just paranoid about turbo parts in the pan which is why I pulled it. BUT now they are new and the engine leaks are taken care of. Plus I now have an oil pressure gauge under the hood and I made a new mount for the ARB manifold. Once this is all together I can move on to the fuel system.... maybe.... lol

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You can do it!

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Geez, that's quite the ordeal.

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Yebbut, now I know how to change out all that stuff lol... Only thing I haven't touched on my truck now is the short block and radio.... LOL

 

Great now that I said that my radio will go out....

 

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Still less work with better results than your Ford.... :p:

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My Ford was more fun to drive on the street, one it was lighter and two it was slightly easier to park. That truck was much easier to throw around so to speak. Off road no question the MegaCab outperforms the Ford, and has far more horsepower. All that said, I still want a new Power Wagon, I just can't justify the cost and hit to my wallet, this truck is paid for and I have a bit of time invested into it. I actually think I have more wrench time on this rig lol....

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