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Radiator decided to check out on me a month ago, ordered a new one along with an auxiliary transmission cooler. Well somebodies shipping department had dropped the ball and it took a lot longer than expected to get the new one from Mishimoto. I looked at their all aluminum model but could not justify the cost especially since the oem one lasted 12 years, then I found they make an oem replacement with a lifetime warranty. So that's what I got, it fit very nicely, maybe even better than oem. Got it all bolted up and filled with water and radiator flush.... ran the truck for about a half hour and the dang temp gauge didn't even move and the radiator was still ice cold.... dangit, I'll be picking up a new thermostat today to replace that new thermostat, maybe get one from motortrucks instead of napa. After that have the front rotors turned and new pads, rebuild ball joints, new passenger side unit bearing, rebuild long arms (I have new self centering spherical joints going in), replace rear pinion seal, new tires, get new engine/transmission skid plate installed....

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trucks do need the PM's if ya want to have a long term ride , Yours has finally met the time Eh Pat

 

Pat next time you need ball joints check out EMF brand , pricey but rebuildable [at low $$] and massive and adjustable as wear occurs

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Who is this Pat Guy??? I knew a Girl named Nancy that owned that truck at one time....

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Gary I have Dynatrac Prosteer ball joints, same concept as the EMF's, just not quite a purdy.

 

This was Nancy's truck???? That's ok I knew this lesbian Sally who moved away just to have a view of a river....

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The River is noice! :rk:

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Drove the truck around yesterday, nice having steady temps again. It will probably be even better once there is coolant in there and not just water/flush. Picked up 8 gallons of distilled water, cracked me up it's baby water, but it's $1 a gallon. Next I'll tackle the front brakes, ball joints and unit bearing, bought a 1200ft/lb electric impact from Harbor Freight. Was going to get the Milwaukee, but figured as often as I will use it the HF one should be just fine. Anyone know what Les Schwab charges to turn rotors?

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I quit turning rotors and just replace them now. They are cheap unless you have some super pimp daddy whamodiyne stainless rotors. I would take them to the Stilly Napa.

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Gary I have Dynatrac Prosteer ball joints, same concept as the EMF's, just not quite a purdy.

 

This was Nancy's truck???? That's ok I knew this lesbian Sally who moved away just to have a view of a river....

 

 

I found the EMF site researching HD ball joints do to the other places not making second gen truck joints .. and when I got my EMF's they didn't make upper joints only lowers or I would have bought both , so eventually I'll have the tops also .. but only driving my truck when towing my trailer I figure that will be a long time away at a very few thousand miles a year

Edited by GTroyer

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I have EBC drilled and slotted rotors, so I will at least try and get them turned. I will call Stilly Napa.... I have a whole set of brakes, but they did not work well when I went to 37's and combine that with my driving habits.... The EBC's stop in half the distance of the old brakes which I believe Mike got them for me from Orielly. For 98% of the people out there they are more than fine... anyways if I have to I can toss those rotors on to get by if I have to purchase new ones.

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I found the rotors from brakeperformance.com to be as good as the EBC for a lot less $$$. I have the dimpled/slotted ones on my truck. Work real well hauling my heavy camper.

 

Doug

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as above the rotors from Brake Performance are very good for heavy towing love them on mine

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That's good to know.... Yea I just looked them up, half the price of EBC. If my rotors are not turnable then I will go that route. Also if they are not turnable I will be severely disappointed in EBC, for as much as that full kit cost you should be able to get more life out of a set of rotors. BUT they stop REALLY well compared to any other brakes I have had on this truck.

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Stilly Napa said no problem on resurfacing the slotted rotors, and EBC pads are cheaper on Amazon than on EBC's site, by quite a bit.... strange.

 

Now deciding on tires.... Maxxis Razr MT's or Kanati Trail Hogs.... Both 37's, both e rated, both 37X12.5R17

 

 

 

Edited by megacabcummins

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Stilly Napa said no problem on resurfacing the slotted rotors, and EBC pads are cheaper on Amazon than on EBC's site, by quite a bit.... strange.

 

Now deciding on tires.... Maxxis Razr MT's or Kanati Trail Hogs.... Both 37's, both e rated, both 37X12.5R17

 

 

 

The guys at the Arlington (Stilly) Napa are the goods! They do all my rotors and flywheels always a top notch job! One of the few left with a complete machine shop and they will build hoses for anything.

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I was going to order new pads from EBC, but I decided I can buy 5 sets of pads through brake performance for what EBC wants for their heavy duty orange stuff pads. So that's what I did... I have another complete set o rotors I may go get turned after I get these done and just have a set ready to go. The fun part is going to be pulling everything off and putting it back on, twice lol. But now that I have a really good impact it won't be such a chore.

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https://simpletire.com/milestar-lt37-12.50r17-22050500-tires

 

I bought some new tires Friday. Milestar Patagonia 37"... I don't know how they did it but Les Schwab messed up a couple rear studs. Funny I have had these wheels on and off several times with zero issues. Oh well time to replace some studs and go to some open end acorns, never liked the lug nuts I have. I also replaced the passenger side unit bearing, much easier with a good impact. Now I just have to rebuild my ball joints and control arm joints.

Edited by megacabcummins

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1 hour ago, megacabcummins said:

https://simpletire.com/milestar-lt37-12.50r17-22050500-tires

 

I bought some new tires Friday. Milestar Patagonia 37"... I don't know how they did it but Les Schwab messed up a couple rear studs. Funny I have had these wheels on and off several times with zero issues. Oh well time to replace some studs and go to some open end acorns, never liked the lug nuts I have. I also replaced the passenger side unit bearing, much easier with a good impact. Now I just have to rebuild my ball joints and control arm joints.

I would have Les schwab replace studs I about died when I did the 8 on my 4th gen over $10 each adds up quick. 

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Finally got around to rebuilding my ball joints, wanted to drive around a bit on them before commenting. I did the rear brakes a couple weeks ago because I completely lost a pad on the passenger inside rear, which in turn took out the rotor. That totally bummed me out since the cost of these rotors are are so high. Oh well move on.... So I had the old rotors turned at Stilly Napa and they got them done quick, they actually forgot about them but still got them done when they said they would lol. I also picked up new clips and pin boots (whatever they are called) from brake performance when I got the pads and got the new pads and everything installed in the rear. Friday before last I got time to tear into the front, same deal as the rear... turned rotors, new pads, new clips, and new boots. I also figured it was a good time to rebuild the ball joints, and it started raining, not bad but enough to suck. Grabbed a couple welding magnets and stuck a blue tarp to the side of the truck and kept at the passenger side, the passenger side lower pin was froze to the knuckle. Hitting the knuckle with a BFH was just pushing the lower cup out of the knuckle. Then I remembered I had a small torch so I heated the lower knuckle and it finally popped off. Pins came out quite easily and the lower bearing was clearly worn. Then I used an old Ford hub socket and the dodge 44mm socket with a chunk of all thread to push the cup back into the axle C, worked like a charm. Well per the instructions you can remove the pins from the bearings with a BFH. I didn't see that happening without doing damage to the pins, so Monday I ran up to Diesel Outfitters and Mike was nice enough to help me out and we used the press to swap the bearings on the pins. Got home and popped the lower in without issue. The upper was a bit stubborn but finally seated correctly. Went to put it back together and nothing was lining up. Then I reread the instructions I had skipped over and I missed the part where it said leave a 1/4" between the bearing and the lip on the pin. S#!T... Tried a few different things and nothing was budging... So instead of damaging anything and getting more mad I put my tools away and went in the house. Then I ordered a ball joint press off of Amazon, same day shipping. Got home Tuesday and jumped into getting everything done. Ball joint press worked like a charm, it also worked great for pressing the pins out of the calipers that were quite stubborn, only thing that was tricky was the lower seal. Keeping it seated while the glue dried was messy, but it's on there (the other side was a bugger too) Next I jumped into the other side, having the ball joint press made things go much easier, again the lower was shot and this side was worse than the passenger, this time I heated the upper and lower and the knuckle came off with zero issue. I was even able to use the bearing press to press the bearings off and on the pins. Got it all together and remembered I forgot to grease the lower before I put the axle back in.,.. crap... well there is really no room in there and I had heard guys had temporarily put a normal zerk in there to grease the lower then put the needle zerk back in... no go. So the axle came back out (antisieze makes this so much easier), greased it up real quick then back together and then got the caliper ect on. Truck drives like a new truck, I thought some of the tire shake I had was just because of the 37's on the oem wheels, turns out the tire shake was worn ball joints. I still have a small notchy spot in the steering that is the tie rod, it is in need of replacement but much more driveable now. The tre on the passenger side feels like there is gravel in it lol.... but I indexed it 90 degrees and it'll be good for a month or so. The brakes are great, really impressed with these, especially for the cost savings over ebc. Next is rear pinion seal, or oil pan gasket....

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