Jump to content
Stokes

how clean is clean enough for injector cups?

Recommended Posts

Im a bit past half way with changing out injectors on a 01 with 220K miles on her and for the life of me cant get the second from the rear on the drivers side as clean as i wish and am curious if its fine the way it is? i hate to admit it but i might have even scratched a circle line on it so maybe im stuck pulling and replacing it? man i wont lie this is a big bummer as i needed to have it back together yesterday and am so close to putting it all back together.

 

you can see the spec in this pic.

IMG_0829_zps417f7292.jpg

 

as long as the scratch is very faint maybe its ok?

 

also one more question, when i had changed out the pass side, the first injector had come out with its cup attached, so i cleaned it real good and gave the cup and bore where it rests in the block a good cleaning and put it back in with normal red loctight. Now that its all said and done i read more that others clarify that it needs to be high temp loctight. will the red loctight i installed it with hold or should?

 

thanks guys.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the more i thought abouts it im not as worried as before since the lines are circular and not side to side and i put the new injectors in. haha im now hopin the next response isnt a oh no :angel:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That radial scratch looks ok to me. The copper should seal it fine. If it was center to outside edge it might make it not seal.

 

I've put in cups with red loctite and haven't had a problem. I make sure to install injector right away so the loctite cures while torqued down. Old timer told me that if you wait before torquing, the loctite could crack and leak when torqued.

 

Whether that is true I haven't experimented with yet.

 

I say button it up and run it.!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

PS I think your cleanliness standards are way too tough. That cup looks fine for clean.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also, when pulling injectors get them to twist a touch before you pull them and you will rarely lift a cup.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lb7?

 

How did your injector lines look?

 

I always sonic clean them before install.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the injectors looked like it was a mirical that the truck drove to my house haha, pretty pretty dirty. i wish i could say i was super quick about the loctite but it might have been a half hour or so maybe less.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i did have the cup tapped in nice and snug so im hoping a none issue. and I know what ya mean about giving them a twist, i did so on the driver side and was able to wiggle them out by hand. but the one that took the cup with it was full of crud and that was probably why it stuck. thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Half hour on red and a fairly cool engine is fine.

 

Sounds like you have it covered!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

looks clean enough... iv seen them seal with quite a bit of crud embeded in the washer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those injector cupps look like they are brand new to me! :thumbup2:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks again for the help guys the motor seems to run like a top. he said a week later when he really really laid into it on a hill it jumped into limp mode after awhile but chances are that could be none injector related? i dunno we do not have the stuff to lookup why it threw a code he was gonna change the fuel filter again and make sure it didnt get plugged up from the Dynomite additive cleaning things out

 

BUT...the truck is loosing coolant somewhere and i pray its not that cup. the truck had a pre existing radiator leak that we plan to take care of soon but untill then we cannot tell if that leak is the only reason it looses coolant. There is no bubbles in the coolant res and there is definetly no white smoke out the tail pipe. is there anyhting else to check to make sure its not the cup? no coolant in the oil either.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cup seals would show coolant in the oil. So your rad leak needs to be fixed asap.

Replace the small turbo water line while you are at it. When they blow, the coolant loss is pretty spectacular to say the least.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

phew! good to hear, ill give him a call now that i think of it he was gonna get the codes pulled today im curious what its telling him, I was super carefull with cleaning the lines and everything around them, i highly doubt I got any grit into the injectors, Im hoping these CEL/limp mode issues are not related

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

phew! good to hear, ill give him a call now that i think of it he was gonna get the codes pulled today im curious what its telling him, I was super carefull with cleaning the lines and everything around them, i highly doubt I got any grit into the injectors, Im hoping these CEL/limp mode issues are not related

 

9/10 times if its going into limp mode its due to an electrical issue with an injector--open/short.. The code will give ya the info ya need...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

dang so im not out of the woods yet huh. well either way im waiting on him to pull the codes. I know its tough on him to take the time to do it due to being really busy and his work depends on the truck. Ill get on him about checkin it and let ya guys know what its sayin.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

turns up evergreen diesel ran there cool gizmos on it and said that the CP3 is bad. is there any way for me to confirm the CP3's condition? My friend is feelin alittle like the other shop might have not been the most honest to get more business out of him ( as in maybe they said injectors while knowing the pump is going out kinda thing). the truck ran way better with the new injectors (definetly ready to be swapped) but the porblem of it throwing into limp mode still was happening on long hard accels and has gotten worse. sound like the symptoms of a IP?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Depends on what codes.

 

Lift pump?

 

If its fairly close to stock throw a race plug into it. This will disable the pressure relief valve. I have seen dozens and dozens of trucks beat on daily and have no issues with the race plug.

 

I have a hard time condemning a cp3 on a running truck. USUALLY they are leaking or the truck doesn't build pressure at all. The FCA on the side of the pump might be acting up also and not controlling the pressures correctly.... LOTS of options here. My advice is start with a plug.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Depends on what codes.

 

Lift pump?

 

If its fairly close to stock throw a race plug into it. This will disable the pressure relief valve. I have seen dozens and dozens of trucks beat on daily and have no issues with the race plug.

 

I have a hard time condemning a cp3 on a running truck. USUALLY they are leaking or the truck doesn't build pressure at all. The FCA on the side of the pump might be acting up also and not controlling the pressures correctly.... LOTS of options here. My advice is start with a plug.

thats the info im lookin for! thanks for the heads up :thumbup2: ill dig deeper into it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Depends on what codes.

 

Lift pump?

 

If its fairly close to stock throw a race plug into it. This will disable the pressure relief valve. I have seen dozens and dozens of trucks beat on daily and have no issues with the race plug.

 

I have a hard time condemning a cp3 on a running truck. USUALLY they are leaking or the truck doesn't build pressure at all. The FCA on the side of the pump might be acting up also and not controlling the pressures correctly.... LOTS of options here. My advice is start with a plug.

 

i agree, generaly cp3's ether work, or dont.... fca/fpr issues are faily common, as are poping the valve.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

would you suggest shimming the FPRV as apposed to just spending 1 min and Tig welding the little hole on the valve shut? I did some looking around and it seems some are putting two 4mm washers behind the spring to tighten it up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've never had a problem with a full block off.... and my fat fingers enjoy NOT having to deal with those little washers in that tight space. I choose plug 90% of the time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok! i finnally have gotten around to working on this again, he had put around 20k on it since the injectors being changed being easy on it so it wouldnt jump to limp. but it has steadily gotten worse. I welded the end of the banjo bolt shut that threads into the FPRV and took it for a drive. all it took was a good hill to really really lean on it (read foot to floor for 1st-4th gear) to make it hit limp mode. is there anyway to test the FCA? this thing idles super smooth and doesnt drive like anything is goin wrong till it does. I was thinking of rigging up a way to hook my vac gauge to the fuel port on the front of the engine to check how hard the CP3 is having to pull the fuel. but any ideas on what else you would check? ill have to ask what code it was giving to make evergreen diesel think its the CP3 at fault.

Edited by Stokes

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×