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Excursion with 7.3 or 6.0??

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Looking at getting my wife a Diesel Excursion. What should I look for? What are the positives and negatives of each? Also, any other quirks I should look out for on the excursions??

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7.3 just go 7.3

more reliable, less problems to fix.

cheaper to fix if it does break.

 

the 6.0 may have more power but the problems it has just aren't worth it unless you plan on dumpin in more money after the fact for headstuds egr delete.

 

in my opinion, go 7.3

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7.3 just go 7.3

more reliable, less problems to fix.

cheaper to fix if it does break.

 

the 6.0 may have more power but the problems it has just aren't worth it unless you plan on dumpin in more money after the fact for headstuds egr delete.

 

in my opinion, go 7.3

 

 

X2 unless you really want to play with more power the 7.3 is the way to go. I have owned both and while I do like new tranny and the power of the 6.Oh wow, I will most likely end up having to do head studs, EGR delete, etc .... and even when left stock there were still issues with the early 6.Ohs. On the other hand if you want to push 450 + hp and don't mind pulling the engine for head studs and egr delete, and maybe bigger IC (if you are going to tow heavy)or water inject to keep EGTs down.......then the 6.Oh WOW with exhaust and SCT will make you happy.

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Because I don't know are they available with the 6.4 or the new 6.7?

 

I would stay clear of the 6.0, just to long of a list of negatives vs the good.

 

So if I was looking I would be looking for the 7.3.

 

If your wife needs the nicer features of a newer rig then I would hope there are rigs out there with either the 6.4 or the new 6.7.

 

Just talked to a guy at work with a brand new truck with the 6.7. (Has 1000 miles) He said it's getting 18 mpg on combination driving.

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Because I don't know are they available with the 6.4 or the new 6.7?

 

I would stay clear of the 6.0, just to long of a list of negatives vs the good.

 

So if I was looking I would be looking for the 7.3.

 

If your wife needs the nicer features of a newer rig then I would hope there are rigs out there with either the 6.4 or the new 6.7.

 

Just talked to a guy at work with a brand new truck with the 6.7. (Has 1000 miles) He said it's getting 18 mpg on combination driving.

 

They dropped the Ex before the 6.4 so 7.3 or 6.0 is the choice.....or.....

buy a V8 one cheap and do the 5.9 conversion, too much work for me though.

Yeah the new 6.7 seems like a really nice unite but any of the new ones have so much stuff on them what happens after the first 100,000 miles or so???? how long do all those new coolers, sensers, filters, etc. last???

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While my first option would be to repower to a CR 5.9 as Kelly had suggested I will say this.

 

If you go for the 7.3 be ready to upgrade the up pipes from the exhaust manifolds to the turbo. Also change the compressor wheel to an upgarded one if you plan on towing or heavy loads. Also check the exhaust manifolds, they may be leaking between the head and manifold. They can be surfaced and reinstalled. There is a good indication if this is happening if the performance seems to be down.

 

 

 

For the 6.0, the biggest problem with the design of the 6L is the oil cooler. The channels in the water potion of the oil cooler are very small. This makes them very easy to clog and the oil will not be cooled enough resulting in engine failure. Further more the next thing in line in the water cooling circut is the EGR cooler. When cooling water is restricted to this cooler it will boil the water inside the cooler and push the head gasket or crack the cooler and flood the intake with cooling water. Both not so desirable. The next problem is the design of the EGR cooler. There are actually 2 designs one round (03- early 04) and one square (late 04 and on) The round was the better of the two. It is less likely to clog. However both are know to clog which causes issues and with throw a check engine light.

 

For the oil cooler there is a cure which invovles removing the water from the oil cooler and installing a radiator and remote filter for the oil.

 

Another cure is to install a cooling water filter however even with this there is still a risk.

 

The cure for the EGR cooler is to either add a EGR delete which would also require a tuner to turn off the EGR and remove the check engine light.

 

The other is to install a better designed cooler and then you could use the tuner to turn if off when not needed. For Bulletproof Diesel's design the cost is the same to install an updated cooler or a delete so I think istalling a new updated cooler is better since you have the option to go back to stock operation at anytime and sitll have reliability for the same price.

For stock or moderate power the fix would be fine. Anything more I would suggest head studs.

 

 

I don't know much about FORDs but I did stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night. :right:

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With the 7.3's you will want to stay away from the 2000 models, very few of them had the odd ball in between '99 7.3's that were kind of a ###### between the '97 and '99.5 engines. You will want to replace the up pipes like Ben mentioned, not a hard job and several shops offer updated versions that seal better and won't ever leak, PDR has the best ones IMHO. You will also want to check the oil rail plugs at each end of the heads, they are prone to leaking and cause hard starting and when they go it's a huge mess, $7 each from Ford, $21 each from IH. You will also want to check your high pressure oil lines from the high pressure oil pump, I went to a hose shop and had better ones made than you can get from Ford or International. If you plan on leaving it stock then the compressor wheel is a great option, if you want to get some HP out of it just swap the turbo and don't bother with the wheel. Add a FASS or AirDog, your fuel system will thank you. You will most likely have to replace injectors, it would be like winning the lottery if you didn't, just drop the coin for some 160cc injectors if you want to stay close to stock. The mileage will be better, and the engine will run better trust me it was the best thing I ever did for the '97. If the air box is stock mod that sucker and get more air in there. Don't know much about the 6.0's, I know they got a bad reputation, but can be made to run some pretty decent HP.

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My neighbor 6.0 need new heads when the exhaust gas recirulation screw it up, 10K overall

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With the 7.3's you will want to stay away from the 2000 models, very few of them had the odd ball in between '99 7.3's that were kind of a ###### between the '97 and '99.5 engines. You will want to replace the up pipes like Ben mentioned, not a hard job and several shops offer updated versions that seal better and won't ever leak, PDR has the best ones IMHO. You will also want to check the oil rail plugs at each end of the heads, they are prone to leaking and cause hard starting and when they go it's a huge mess, $7 each from Ford, $21 each from IH. You will also want to check your high pressure oil lines from the high pressure oil pump, I went to a hose shop and had better ones made than you can get from Ford or International. If you plan on leaving it stock then the compressor wheel is a great option, if you want to get some HP out of it just swap the turbo and don't bother with the wheel. Add a FASS or AirDog, your fuel system will thank you. You will most likely have to replace injectors, it would be like winning the lottery if you didn't, just drop the coin for some 160cc injectors if you want to stay close to stock. The mileage will be better, and the engine will run better trust me it was the best thing I ever did for the '97. If the air box is stock mod that sucker and get more air in there. Don't know much about the 6.0's, I know they got a bad reputation, but can be made to run some pretty decent HP.

 

The best bet would be a 2002 7.3 and leave it as is. Some time down the road you may end up changing the up pipes to the aftermarket bellowed type but if you install gauges and watch for boost drop you will know when that time has arrived. You will want fuel pressure, EGT, tranny temp, and boost gauges.

Edited by rubystargoats

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Thanks for all the Input. I have narrowed my search down to a 2000-2002. I will post up when we find something.

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Well I don't get the RiffRaff thing as you can do the same thing with a FASS or AirDog plus have cleaner fuel, but I guess if it works... I don't know what the Dfuser thing is and I did google it and that craigslist ad came up, but if it is the crossover to balance the oil rails then wasn't worth the money, I didn't notice any difference with it or without. Neither will hurt anything of course so I would just leave them on there and just make sure you check o-rings for leaks, carry extra o-rings with you just in case, and a Cam Position Sensor (maybe two of those they are cheap now) they do fail and ALWAYS in the worst place. Get rid of that hypertech POS chip.... And get one of these http://www.dp-tuner.com/, as far as I know Jody is still the man for 7.3 tuning, it will feel and run like a completely different truck. You could go with an Edge, which is what I had, but I can tell you that you will be much happier with Jody's tunes, even if you just want mileage. Then i would reference back to the previous posts to know what to look for as far as what you should watch for. If the guy had a chip in it he probably wasn't just driving to the feed store on sundays, so look for leaking o-rings like I said earlier, check those up-pipes like Ben and I mentioned, and if you have a free weekend I would just swap out the oil rail plugs so you don't end up doing them in December like someone I know (me)...

Edited by megacabcummins

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Picking up a 2002 Fully Loaded Limited. Here is the Craiglist Add.

 

http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/2546394765.html

 

Anybody have any input on the extras?

 

Sweet looking rig, it looks a little taller than stock?

I did not see any list of extras but if it runs good, don't fix what aint broke, just add gauges and yes carry a spare CPS.

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the previous owner said he put F250 front springs in it to level the front. It has MBRP 4in Turbo Back Exhaust, Volant Cold Air Intake, Late Model F250 finned aluminum rear diff cover, POS Hypertech programmer. Also has the Roadmaster Suspension Add on to the rear.

 

 

He included two CPS modules that he caried in the lockable safe installed in the console.

 

Here is the "other" things that I am unsure about.

 

1. It has a dial on the dash from these guys http://cheapdieselchips.com/

 

2. It has this oil crossover hose http://dfuser.com/mfg/powerstroke/73/Engine/Other/Other.php#hxkit

 

3. It has this Riff Raff Regulated Return Line. http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/category/F731-FS-RR.html

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So it looks like he may have stacked a chip with the hypertech, or just has both?? Yea the crossover didn't do much in my 7.3, maybe you notice it with bigger injectors, I only had 160's. On the superduty front suspension I am pretty sure all the front springs are the same, just different codes, goatboy will correct me on that if I am wrong... So he must have installed ad-a-leafs or maybe some 3" front springs...

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nice looking rig :dance: .

 

And yes changing the spring packs will change ride height and ride. I'm not up to par on all the codes and what differences they make but do know many people do this as opposed to leveling kits.

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