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I just finished reading most of the posts and it seems that I might be one of the few still puttering around with 1st gen trucks. I have three of them and the bodies have not completely fallen off the frames yet, so I might be good to go for another 100k or so?

 

The question is: What is the correct procedure for converting from r-12 to 134. The shops I have contacted are real proud of this procedure and charge big bucks. I do lots of mechanical things, but do not have experience with air conditioning goodies.

 

If anyone is familiar with the procedure or could point me in the right direction I would just be tickled.

 

Now that it is pouring rain, and ugly it is probably time to fix the air, never mind I stuck to the seat all summer. Some things never change around here.

 

Thanks in advance to all you folks for all the good stuff I get off this site,

 

John B Duvall WA

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First off - I did my conversion due to compressor failure which put junk in the system.

 

Here is what I did:

Flush the system with $50 worth the AC flush.

Replace the reciever/dryer.

Replace the orfice tube.

Replace the R12 fittings with R134a fitting.

Add the proper amount of PAG oil.

Evacuate the system for 1 hour.

Charged with dry nitrogen.

Evacuated the system again for another hour.

Charged the system with the recomended amount of 134a.

 

I have heard of easier ways but I have no idea if they are better or worse then what I did.

 

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are you just out of the r12 and no A/c working ??

 

find the leak..and let us know ..some here might have a can or two left of the r12..we know it's gold but we have no use for it and would do a pay it forward to ya..I have a can I think somewhere

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John - Got my goodies through a wholesale house here in Portland.

 

The local shop wanted $100 to flush (with alcohol) and evacuate the system so I said screw it and bought the good flush, guage set, can tap and adapters for just a little more. The neighbor provided the vacuum pump which is still sitting in my shop ohmy.gif

 

Robert - Mac's must like you - They qouted me around $250 to flush and fill if I installed the parts.

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John - Got my goodies through a wholesale house here in Portland.

 

The local shop wanted $100 to flush (with alcohol) and evacuate the system so I said screw it and bought the good flush, guage set, can tap and adapters for just a little more. The neighbor provided the vacuum pump which is still sitting in my shop ohmy.gif

 

Robert - Mac's must like you - They qouted me around $250 to flush and fill if I installed the parts.

219068[/snapback]

 

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The problem is the compressor clutch needs replacing. everything else works fine. It doesn't look like the compressor can be dropped without disconnecting the hoses?It would be sweet if that was possible? I may as well convert to 134 if I have to unhook the hoses to get the clutch off.

 

John B

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Haven't looked at the Dodge AC compressor that closely but my Ford AC clutch could be replaced without dumping the charge. You might want to research into that option.

 

Just remembered - I have a Dodge AC Compressor off a 96 with 88,000 miles. If you can use the clutch then it's yours.

Edited by BV
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The problem is the compressor clutch needs replacing. everything else works fine. It doesn't look like the compressor can be dropped without disconnecting the hoses?It would be sweet if that was possible? I may as well convert to 134 if I have to unhook the hoses to get the clutch off.

 

John B

219708[/snapback]

Are you sure the comp clutch needs replacing ? on my 91.5 ther was a low pressure switch in the system that wont let the clutch engage it would also blow my W/W fuse cause it gets power there just double check that i thought the same thing then i noticed that if i turned on my W/W and the A/C was on it would blow the fuse

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You may also want to consider having the system charged with one of the newer blended refrigerants such as Hotshot. They're compatiable with the older lubricant in R12 systems, so the entire system would not have to be flushed of the old oil to replace it with PAG oil (that is compatible with R134a)..

 

Most of said refrigerants can't be purchased by non certified folk, but you may be able to find an hvac tech that can evacuate, charge and oil the system with one of the blends for far less than a complete flush. You'd also get better cooling this way, because the R12 systems dont cool as well with R134a in them as they did with R12, as the system designs and pressures are different.

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Thanks for the info guys, and yes I did test for a bad clutch and it is smoked. It looks like a doable project now that I have all the good information. All I have to do is find a weekend to start the project. I did get the shop cleaned out though and can actually walk through it now. That was an accomplishment in itself

 

John B

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Thanks for the info guys, and yes I did test for a bad clutch and it is smoked. It looks like a doable project now that I have all the good information. All I have to do is find a weekend to start the project. I did get the shop cleaned out though and can actually walk through it now. That was an accomplishment in itself

 

John B

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John I changed the clutch on my 95 and did not do anything else to the system. I got the clutch from a company in Dallas TX . If the clutch didnot burn out the seal then could you possible just change out the clutch assembly?

I like r 12 a lot better in a system that had r12 in the beginning. good luck Jim

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