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Darkside's Callin'

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About Darkside's Callin'

  • Birthday 07/26/1963

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Spanaway, WA
  • Interests
    fast mechanical things...
  1. Glad you are doing better., just wish I had seen the post sooner, haven't been on the forum much the past couple of years. Beautiful rig BTW... friggin' awesome! Will find a good home for the bike
  2. Bike is a Pro-form 920S EKG 40" long, 21" wide, 58" high Has heart rate monitoring thru the hand grips, programable work out, etc.. actually a pretty nice unit. I live in Spanaway, not sure miles to you, but my Suburban gets about 15 mpg.. You can have it for the cost of fuel...
  3. Mr. Cob If you are still looking for an excercise bike wife FINALLY agreed that hers can go away.. hasn't been used in a couple of years, but is in really good shape, kept in the house (taking up a lot of room. Could bring it up for the price of fuel.
  4. probably where the problem lies, but I haven't had a chance to mess with it any more.. finally got the check engine light to stay off though!!! Am definitely thinking of pulling a controller at the wrecking yard and swapping it out.
  5. cool thank you... will have to run it by the boss, but... Still have access to the wrecking yard I used to work at, migth see if they have one with a compatible controller adn just swap it out..
  6. this is the kind of info I was hoping to get... how hard was it to get to the pins to resolder? Assuming the ABS ECMB/pump has to come out of the truck to do it?
  7. had a similar problem on a '73 Chevy 3/4 ton... finally ripped the whole trailer harnes out of it on the side of the road in the middle of nowwhere NEvada, replaced the fuse adn hit the road. first bump fuse popped again. found the camper harness that was tucked in the mid truck frame in a piece of PVC had rotated, the slit in the pvc caught a bolt adn it wore thru the tunning light wire. .. drove me crazy for 3 days before I finally found it..
  8. could weld a tab that extends forward on one side, and put a bolt thru that tab where it is outside of the hitch. Bolt would keep it from just sliding out, but would allow it to move when towing
  9. sorry, was trying to post while coping with a migraine... editted above.
  10. (EDIT, sorry) 2007 Chevy Silverado 3500 cab & chassis, with shop biult flatbed. 6.0 Automatic. having a problem fixing the shop flatbed ABS issue.. started a couple of months ago with a P0040 code.. figured 'Easy fix, swap the hub/sensor'.. swapped it and still same code.. inspected connector by the shock and tightened up the fit of the pins, no help. Cleaned and reseated the connector at the EBCM, no change. Sometimes get sensor data up to 7 mph then it drops off. Occasionally the abs will work, then crap back out so pretty sure it's a harness issue, but where to look? ABS wiring runs thru the main harness, and without running new wires it's hard to really verify .. Anyone else have this issue adn find a good fix?
  11. hoping to work on it tomorrow, been sick since I got home, but making a plan and checking it twice.
  12. Thanks all, will look more into it., especially the gauge/wiring issues. Temps were mid to low 50's both ways, so extra cold was not an issue New T-stat has a jiggler, was in a hurry, not sure what orientation I put it in.. but will check that, adn my Diesel MEch buddy said to remove the jiggler, leave the hole ope so the jiggler doesn't seal when pressure is behind it.
  13. "Smoke Screw", IIRC, is just a pre-position on the fuel pin to push it down for more fuel until the boost diaphram overrides the spring... More pre-boost fuel, more "Smoke" I keep mine set pretty light, but turned the factory pin to max fuel, softer boost spring, Fuel screw in to bring idle up to 850, and adjusted the star wheel down quite a ways (need to bring the star wheel back up some with the softer spring though..) Makes a nice driver, have seen as high as 248.4 RWHP, but it is de-tuned from that some right now.... I like my Getrag gears INSIDE the case..!
  14. Been a while since i've been in the forum, glad to see it's still active! Going to pick the corprate knowledge here to verify what I think I'm dealing with on my '93 D350 Cummins. Truck has 208K miles, most hooked to a variatey of trailers or decent loads, pump and injectors are stock parts but 'tweaked' (best RWHP was 248.4). Engine has never been apart. For the past couple of years when making uphill pulls the temp gauge seemed to rise faster and further than it used too, but then cooled right back down after the climb. Figured it was time to have the radiator flushed, but haven't gotten to it yet. This weekend I took the truck from Tacoma to Mid-state Oregon, 600 mile round trip. Going down it was fine about half way, then, after a quick rest stop I pulled back ont I-5, and rolled it up to speed, looked down and the temp gauge was mid-scale. Started watching it and it cycled from it's normal spot just below the 2n'd hashmark up to the mid-point and back down, about 1 minute per complete cycle. Found a place with light (was dark, of course) adn looked everything over, rad was full, no new leaks (have the typical weeping leak below the t-stat at the head gasket), nothing obvious... Hit the road againi and it was fine, no cycling. I stopped for the next rest stop an hour or so later, and when I pulled back out the cycling issue was back again, acted like a bad T-stat, so Sunday morning before the trip home I swapped the t-stat and gasket, topped off the A/F, and hit the road. Once the temp came up to normal it started cycling, slightly higher 'normal' and 'peak' points due to T-stat variance, but never got worse. 300 mile run back up to home and it cycled that way the whole way... Wanted to get a video, but couldn't figure out how to video with my new 4G flip phone... Called a buddy in Monroe who works at a diesel shop with his dad and picked his brain for a while, so I have a pretty good idea what's going on, but what do the Dodge Faithful here think?
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