Jump to content

Ternkiem

Members
  • Content Count

    253
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Ternkiem last won the day on August 30 2019

Ternkiem had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

About Ternkiem

  • Rank
    Gold Prospector

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oak Harbor, WA
  • Interests
    Fishing, Camping , Gold Prospecting, Metal Detecting,  Woodworking, My wife (not necessarily in any order)

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. it’s not the time spent at idle. It’s the higher idle rpms translating to higher rpms at speed thus lower mpg. yes and I’ve spent hundreds of $$ Ever since trying to figure out the cause so I can get my mileage back up. i would happily go back to bone stock if it gets my mpg back where it belongs. I didn’t ask for performance parts when the mech did my rebuild...he just said he did what ge does to all of the first gen CTD’s he gets in. He’s not been around for a few years now so... my local tranny shop who I don’t really trust with any vehicle says my torq
  2. The converter and transmission have less than 50k on them (although that really doesn’t mean much). Both were built by TRC in Kent. In fact, I tried 3 different converters from them to get this one. The 1st one had to have been built for a rock crawler my mpg was in the 11-12 range, the 2nd one was a bit better getting me about 14-16. Then, with this 3rd one they told me they simply could not build one with a lower stall and it was all they could do for me. They told me I should be over 20. Well...I took a look at my records and if I average out all of the tanks (yes...I keep a
  3. Thank you...sir. We had the truck in gear (D) when he checked it and it was relatively steady around 1050-1100. But the AC was not on...the heater was on high though.
  4. The truck is not hard to start at all so my thought is the timing is set to original specs. I did take it to a mechanic that’s worked on my truck in years past (he has one of the same year) and he put a meter on it and yeah the rpms are set at about 1050 at idle so it is a bit high. But he said it’s not worth my time and money for him to adjust it down to where it belongs (?) and no...he wouldn’t explain how I could do it either. He also told me my timing was dead on so...🤷🏻‍♂️ I filled it up 2 days ago and checked the mileage 16.8 and all but 40 miles were in town. That used to be
  5. I’m not worried about an extra $5-7 a month...but I have replaced it 4 times since I bought it new in October ‘93. “Look into getting your timing adjusted, should gain your mileage back. Higher idle setting is common when things like a fuel pin and performance parts have been added.“ And it sounds like I cannot adjust the idle myself...
  6. Ok guys...I’ve done a search and not found the answers to my questions which are... #1. Does it hurt to leave the truck plugged in 24/7? ive been plugging it in only at about midnight and then only if I anticipate using it the next morning. But occasionally I forget (like yesterday and today) and leave it plugged in all day too. I know she’s a bit “cold hearted” so I really do try to always plug her in if the temps will fall below 40°. #2. When I had the engine work done a few years back the mechanic installed what he calls a performance fuel pump and injecto
  7. Heard back from my buddy a couple of days ago. after changing the harness twice and new injectors, his issues continued . i bet him his ficm was bad because the problem would seem like it was fixed then after the truck warmed up it would come right back. He changed out the ficm and now...PROBLEM SOLVED! thanks to all of you for your help!
  8. Ok...my buddy fixed the brown wire, and replaced the entire injector harness for the 3rd time (this time he went with a factory injector harness instead of a knock-off). Truck STILL throws codes for injectors 1, 4, 6, 7 control circuit open. My thought (and I told him this a whole back) is he has a bad ficm. But he’s leaning more toward a bad male prong on 1 injector.🤷🏻‍♂️ Question for marksmith...is there a way to test the ficm?
  9. Ok...here’s what I got from him today... (notice he calls it tractor mode, as in farm tractor). It’s throwing #1 injector control circuit the. 7,6,4 injector circuit. Before it was the 1 and 6 losing connection at the injured plug replace those and 1 and 8 ice picked the rest lasted a few months now.. same codes I replaced all the plugs it keeps losing connection at the butt connection so wires to short to soldier so I ran new wires same gauge soldered to the right bank does the same thing starts up then yes I think it shorting out the brown wire over by the alternator insulated t
  10. My buddy has an ‘04 LLY. He’s had on ongoing issue for over a year now with his injector wiring. He’s done the “ice pick” fix, and replaced the wiring and connectors multiple times but it’s always the same issue coming back a month or two later.. is there a fool proof fix for this? Aftermarket wiring harness available that can stop this insanity once and for all? I never had this issue when we had our LLY and I’d like to help him out if I can. I know there’s several threads on here but they all seem to center around the ice pick fix. Thanks guys...
  11. mark...is there anything special I need to know about replacing the accumulator piston??
×
×
  • Create New...