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Ternkiem last won the day on August 30 2019

Ternkiem had the most liked content!

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About Ternkiem

  • Rank
    Gold Prospector
  • Birthday 11/16/1952

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Oak Harbor, WA
  • Interests
    Fishing, Camping , Gold Prospecting, Metal Detecting,  Woodworking, My wife (not necessarily in any order)

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  1. For those that are interested... I’m gonna go with a new valve body assembly and a shift kit as it looks like something I can do without removing the thing from the truck. BUT...if I do end up pulling it then I may as well go through the entire thing. All if that sludge had to come from somewhere right? I might change that converter out if I can find one that will continue giving me the mpg’s I want...but that is going to depend a lot on how much it will cost me.. I did a TPS bypass many years ago after replacing it for the 3rd time so I already control when it shifts into OD (a hair over 35mph). Who’s got the best deals on the parts?
  2. So...I just got off the phone with TRC (the place I bought the tranny from). What they sold me was a 47RH (Heavy Duty...whatever that involves) with a NON-LOCKUP converter. The even had the special note that this was a custom built Ultra-low stall at my request. Purchased in 2012. Now that I know what I have...I have other questions for you all. Other than this issue, which again only happens occasionally after going in reverse, and I need this truck...can I continue to drive it while I look for another tranny and rebuild it. Or is this actually a pretty easy 1-2 day job I can do with it installed on the truck? Yeah...I know things like this are always easier on a bench but I’m 1 guy with a torn rotator cuff so the R & R would be really rough on me and marksmith makes this sound like a pretty simple fix. Either way I’m gonna start looking for parts or another RH to build next week.
  3. So...what are some obvious visual identifiers to look for so I can determine which tranny I have?
  4. marksmith...how do I tell if I have a 618, a 47RH, or a 47RE? I believe it’s supposed to be an RH for 1993.
  5. Mark Smith...clutches and steels? I thought this 1st gen had bands? 🤷🏻‍♂️ When I bought this tranny I asked for a heavy duty one. And an ULTRA-Low stall torque converter (for better mileage). I went through 3 others from them before they just ended up building the converter. Since the tranny went in I had other motor issues (leaking head gasket, etc.) and a bad injector pump. When my mechanic did the repairs he recommended I install a performance pump and injectors...so I did. He says I’m still only at MAYBE 250 hp. But that is the grand total of my mods. Anyway...about all I know on my tranny is that it’s supposed to be heavy duty I guess that has something to do with the valve body assembly? And the converter like I said is an ULTRA-low stall and No Lockup. Can you tell I know almost enough to be dangerous? 😆 I'm ok with this shift kit and billet accumulator piston...how would you keep that apply piston from sticking? I can already see this is gonna be a fun job with this torn rotator cuff...WooHoo!
  6. Really fine stuff...like face powder fine. How do I tell what model the tranny is?
  7. Hey guys...I’m having issues with my auto tranny (518?). Truck is a 1993 D250 2-wheel Drive. Here’s some background info... My factory tranny lasted me 226k miles...freaking awesome towing up yo 18k pounds!! So when it finally was time I figure to go the same route but... This is a reman that has under well under 40k miles on it that I bought from a place just off of Hwy 18 on the West Valley Hwy probably 3-4 years ago at a cost of $3500. I have NOT done any heavy towing since I installed this. But now it’s giving me fits and of course it’s out of warranty. When driving down the road it shifts super smooth my mileage is great (if I keep my foot out of it I can get 24-26 on the freeway). The problem is...if I’m driving and need to stop and back up for whatever reason, stop briefly (like look at something on the side of the road), then go forward again it SOMETIMES does not want to do the 1-2 shift. To get it to shift I either need to shut the truck off and wait until the pressure bleeds down the fire it back up again OR... I need to put my foot to the floor. Then of course the pressure will build and it will SLAM into the upshift. i changed the fluid and filter last weekend and there was so much filings I couldn’t even see the magnet...I mean it was nearly a 1/8” thick glob of filings!! Now...I understand that I’m probably looking at a rebuild 🤦🏻‍♂️ but is this something I can do myself (unless it requires special tools I have most mechanics tools already) or do I absolutely have to get it done by a shop? I only have like $2000 to get it done so I’m looking for advise and maybe sone assistance?
  8. I think we found the issue. i found a bare wire that goes to the lights on my visor pinched. threw some electrical tape over it as a temporary repair and the problem is not blowing fuses anymore.
  9. I need your help guys...badly! For some reason my truck started blowing fuse #4.(20amp). The fuse is for my tail lights, markers, dashboard, and horn. A cursory inspection has revealed nothing obvious. Strange thing is it don’t blow immediately...it takes a couple of minutes before it goes. I’m wondering if it could be associated with my electronic brake controller, or maybe a wire that will short out when it vibrates against the metal somewhere or even a wire pinched on the brake or gas pedal.... Because there’s so many possibles I need some suggestions where to start looking... THIS IS CUTTING INTO MY FISHING TIME!!!! thanks all!
  10. Where would I find this located and how would I check it out?? Thanks EZ...
  11. Hello again everyone! Took a ride in the wife's dually tonight. Turned on the seat heat and it would turn itself off after about 60 seconds. I kept having to turn it back on. Driver and passenger seats had the same issue. I have no idea where to look or what to look for so I'm asking the brain trust on here for some direction. Ideas? Thanks all...be safe out there! T
  12. I'm not sure....I assume it includes the core. Great point and next time I'll know to ask. Never entered my mind they were rebuildable and would have a core charge. In my younger days I would have thought of things like that....I must be getting older in the brain than I thought. ...and frankly...that frightens me.
  13. Yeah.....$600 each and only 7 to go! Oh....and that's not including labor to change them!!
  14. Yup...#4 injector was bad. Replaced that and the Glow Plug Controller.... Got it back from the shop today....after giving them $1300! But it is done right and I know I didn't have the necessary tools to accomplish the task. I also got a heads up that the #6 injector may be going bad. They said it was within specs but the reading was a bit higher than all the others. They will check it again at the next oil change...no charge (mighty nice of them huh.).
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