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Fuzzy Bear

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Everything posted by Fuzzy Bear

  1. Wondering this too. Had an issue with the Edge throwing codes just like this. Dielectric grease helped some, but still ended up sending it back for replacement. Can you clear the codes and everything is better? Doug
  2. Better check the VIN. I don't think that could possibly be your truck. J/K, looks great. Jesse does great work. Glad its back and you're happy. I've been through the same thing with some of our vehicles. Just glad we had a good shop that could work it out with the insurance companies. Doug
  3. I use one of these ramps for my 240lbs Mastiff. It lightweight and easy to use. https://www.amazon.com/Solvit-62320-Deluxe-Telescoping-Ramp/dp/B0016HPTFW/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1488832386&sr=1-3&keywords=dog+ramp. Doug
  4. I don't know. They don't leave a bruise like a good beating. As part of the Civilian Police Academy class I just completed I got to take a half shift ride along. I picked a Friday night midnight to 4am. We responded to one call where a guy had been stalking his ex girlfriend who was the mother of two of his kids. Another patrol had already responded and they met up with him as they were coming out of the apartment building. He is a body builder and well known to the cops. When he surprised the cop coming out the door the cop tazed him twice in the butt. Only place for a good shot as he had on a heavy leather coat. Guy did go down quick but was a bit mad at getting shot in the butt and twice. Hoping they let me go on another one during summer tourist season. Doug
  5. I have been running their slotted/dimpled rotors and premium pads for a few years now. Even loaded with the camper they stop way better than stock. May have to get the calipers next go around. Doug
  6. Shawn, glad you had a great trip with the camper. Having the option to stop to avoid bad road conditions or just having your own bathroom is a big advantage. For my setup I do like to keep it below 70mph and try to make my usual speed 65mph. I have at times had it up to 80 for a short spurt to get ahead of something. That was straight line driving with good road conditions on an interstate highway. With my setup, a 3rd gen dually 6.7 auto and a very heavy Lance 1191 camper I have extended bumpstops similar to the Torklift stableloads. That in itself is the biggest help in eliminating sway. I have airbags and use them to level the rig side to side. It seems the side with the slideout is a bit heavier so pressure is different between the two. I add air to the heavy side first until the overload spings are just resting on the bumpstops. I measure the distance from the top of the tire to the wheelwell. I then air up the other side to the same distance. If there is too much sway I lower it a bit. I too had an issue with the front of the camper shifting to one side in heavy crosswind. I now use wood blocks to fill in the gap ahead of the wheelwells so the camper can't move. I have a couple pieces of 6x6 and 2x4 that fills it up just right. I also use a 2x8 on end between the front of the camper and the bed to keep keep it back a couple inches. This keeps the rubber bumpers from catching on the bed lip when raising and also keeps the camper from hitting the tailights in the rear. I hadn't towed with the Lance camper before our trip across country in 2015. I had towed a 20' boat with my previous Arctic Fox 990 and never had any issues. For our cross country move I bought a 7x14 tandem axle aluminum framed enclosed cargo trailer. No sway control or weight distribution but it rode just fine. I have made one other trip last summer with it mostly unloaded and it worked just as well. Just have to keep the electric brakes adjusted for the load. We didn't do as much camping last summer as I had hoped. This coming summer we are definitely going to do some beach camping. Just have to work out the tire pressures and get a good compressor. Doug
  7. Knowing now that some states such as Massachusetts where I now live enforce commercial registration on any vehicle with a GVWR over 10,100 lbs or more that 4 wheels, some manufacturers will now rate their 3/4 ton vehicles under the 10,100. When I replace my 08 3500 DRW I will be going that route. Commercial for private use requires registration and inspection renewal every year versus 2 years for non-commercial. Plus I cannot get a veteran or other vanity plate. Add to that my insurance has to be a commercial policy. Makes it a pain when adding the camper and cargo trailer to ensure they are covered both on/attached to the vehicle and stored at the UHaul lot. EZpass for the toll highways is another hassle. Doug
  8. My schraeders are in front of the rear wheels on the bottom of the fender. Reason being that with the camper on I still have access. I've had this on both my 2003 and my current 2008. If you do the license frame you will have to crawl under it to reach them. And the fuel door is already a problem with the tiedowns in place.
  9. 8. Front brake job. E B C w/ rotors if the price is great or I'll do a pad slap until next time. I would price out parts from brakeperformance.com. I know they are definitely less expensive and from my use well worth it. I'm on my second set of pads for the rear and had the front rotors and pads replaced last summer. I haul heavy with the camper on and these have really helped. Doug
  10. Are you going to mount it to the fuse box cover with velcro? Just asking because I don't think it would be a good idea to put any holes in the cover. Doug
  11. That will probably be my next truck. We're going to a camper trailer so won't need the dually and the added commercial registration/insurance. We're also looking at the diesel Jeep Grand Cherokee to replace the wife's 1998 Toyota 4Runner. Was told by the local dealer they will not be offering the diesel in the 2017 Jeep. Looked a a few used 2014s and saw some that had been buybacks. I think I'll stay away from that year model. Doug
  12. I used a white drop cloth hung between two trees for my outdoor projection screen. A surround sound system and Wii game console made for a fun night. Doug
  13. Have to wonder why he has the bottle jack under the trailer hitch. Probably sags quite a bit. Those Amerigo campers had a lot of innovation. I think there is another one in the Portland area that a guy on RV.net has on a gas Dodge that he converted to a dually. Doug
  14. I agree. I have had the pads and slotted/dimpled rotors on the rear for a few years and 30K+ miles. Still plenty of pad left on them. Had the fronts changed over last fall. They perform very well, especially when I'm loaded with my very heavy camper. I compared them with EBC before I ordered them and found them to be just as good, if not better and at considerably less cost.
  15. The backfire sound I believe is the regen trying to put fuel into the catalytic converter. Being that you did the deletes, wasn't that part eliminated? Doug
  16. I have a sheet of 3/4 pressure treated plywood under my bed mat. My side rails have just over an inch of clearance. The plywood is a 4x8 sheet cut into 2' x4' and nothched in the middle. I use it as support if I have it off the truck when away from home. I have also started putting a piece of 6x6 and 2x4 in front of the wheel well to keep the front of the camper from moving sideways. Doug
  17. If the camper has 2 30lbs. tanks that should be more than enough for several weeks. Instead think of using some solar panels to help recharge the batteries. You should have enough room on the roof for 200+ watts. Cost of panels and invertors has come down a lot and makes it quite affordable. My experience with our old camper after the windstorm in 2006 when we were without power for 6 days. We lived in the camper, running the generator in the morning and evening. Hot water heater, fridge were all on LP. We didn't even use a full 30lb tank for those 6 days. Trying to carry LP tanks on front or back is just something you shouldn't risk. Especially travelling south of the border. Doug
  18. The 9 foot should be good. That is what I had before the current Lance 1191. My biggest need was for a side entry so I wouldn't have to push my 215 lbs. Mastiff over the bumper to get him inside. Doug
  19. I'm a bit biased, Brake Performance has been very good for me.
  20. Big Foot are good campers. That Arctic Fox you're going to look at looks nice. As was also suggested check out Hills over in Yakima. He's pretty honest and gives pretty good deals. For the hitch, being that you already have the TorkLift hitch, go with their SuperTruss. A little pricey but worth the peace of mind. The store up in Kent is very good. Look for a used one on Craigslist. I have one from when I had my 10' Arctic Fox. Still have it but I'm 3000+ miles away and shipping might be a bit much. I had no worries towing my 14' tandem axel cargo trailer behind my 12' camper all the way across the country. Just my experience. Doug
  21. The Brake Performance stuff is very good. American made and far less expensive than EBC and perform at least as good. They have calipers, rotors and all of the hardware. I went with dimpled and slotted rotors to add cooling and prevent warping. Rear rotors and pads have over 50K miles and still going strong. Had the fronts done before we came east last fall. Doug
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