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    Snohomish, Washington

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  1. A quick follow up. Yes, this is on the 2004.5 I took the old PDC apart and didn't see anything obvious in the printed circuit board as far a corrosion goes. There were a number of places where there was some "schmutz" with some sort of oily or greasy dirt/dust across several soldered areas. I think if that was at all conductive it could cause problems. We recently returned from a 2K mile trip to Montana with the truck and trailer and everything works fine with the new PDC installed. The intermittent wipers worked (and I used them a lot) along with the A/C and trailer lights that worked just fine. I reinstalled the factory multi switch because it has a better feel to it than the aftermarket one I put in trying to find the problem with the wipers. Everything works as it should. I'm convinced that the new PDC was the way to go. Easy install. Not the cheapest thing to buy but it did come loaded with all but one relay (power pedals) and all the fuses needed. Probably a placebo effect but the truck seems to run a lot smoother. I put some new load range G Sailun S637 tires on the trailer and it towed incredibly well. Aired to 95 psi. Great trip in all.
  2. Cleaning garage, new in package GM pump rub kit for NP246, NP261, NP261HD from Merchant Automotive. $50.00 New in package Edge 98601 – EGT Accessory for CT and CTS (Non-Expandable) $65.00 Used once Tuff Truck Bag. Keeps items dry in back of open truck bed. $100.00 Open to offers.
  3. A quick follow up- Since just touching the relays (even brand new ones) often made them work and having issues with several items that don't go through the FCM along with the trailer light issue, I bit the bullet and installed an new PDC. So far so good. Everything seems fine. Trailer lights now work, wipers act normal, parking lights on the truck work and the AC fires off every time. If/when I get a few minutes I'll dissect the old PDC and see if I can find a corroded or burn circuit on the printed circuit board. I did test the draw on the trailer lights and nothing draws more than a couple of amps. Hoping this lasts.....
  4. Thanks for the ideas, Shawn. I'll be checking everything, but leaning even more towards the PDC since I now have parking lights on the truck but no trailer running lights. I'll check all grounds while I work through this. Thanks again Dan
  5. Hello, all. Been working with an electrical gremlin and looking for ideas. Here's the issue Wipers intermittently work on intermittent. New switch didn't fix, new motor module (dealer) didn't fix, but swapped relays out and it worked perfectly for a number of months. AC clutch engages for a while then quits. Swapped relays and it has been working great for a couple of years. Plugged my trailer into the truck today and lost all parking lights. Swapped the starter relay and they work, then when I put the original relay back in the parking light location it works again. I'm thinking PDC. Thoughts? Also, anyone know if I can order one on line? Thanks for your input. Dan
  6. Guys, does anyone know of a shop that aligns trailer axles in the Seattle/Everett area? Dynomite in Snohomish used to, but they stopped when the guy that did it retired. Any info would be great. Thanks. Dan
  7. Guys, thanks for the input. I'll let ya'll know what I end up doing.
  8. Guys, looking for input. Current set up is stock lift pump on back of housing, Baldwin PF7977 in stock housing, then through a Donaldson P551313 prior to the CP3. Been running this for the past number of years and it's fine, just looking to get away from the stock lift pump. I'm leaning towards the Fuel Boss, as it seems a more straight forward set up, but thought I'd ask for input here. I've heard the FASS pumps are loud. Can it be heard over the engine at idle? Thanks Dan
  9. Hi Dave. I spoke with my brother in law. His plans have changed and he is going to buy a truck he can use as a daily driver. When I first talked with him he was looking for a dedicated tow vehicle. I'll keep your truck in mind if I run into anyone else looking for something like that. Thanks. Dan
  10. I've forwarded your add to my brother in law. I'll let you know if he's interested. Thanks much. Dan
  11. ​I asked e-trailer.com what the max air pressure my series 06 wheels could handle. The answer was that they could handle whatever the tire could. Anyone buy that? I can't find a marking on them, and don't want to pull a tire off to see if they're marked inside. This is their reply: The Aluminum Hi-Spec Series 06 Trailer Wheel - 16" x 7" Rim - 6 on 5-1/2 - Silver # TTWAL0667655S does not have a rating for maximum psi. That would be based on tire and valve stem not on the wheel itself. For instance, if you use the Taskmaster ST235/80R16 Radial Trailer Tire - Load Range E # TTWTRTM2358016E tire with this wheel, you would have a max psi of 80 that would work just fine with a valve stem like the Americana High Pressure Rubber Snap-In Valve Stem - 1-1/4" Long - Up to 100 psi # AM20907. However, if you use the Taskmaster Provider ST235/85R16 Radial Trailer Tire - Load Range G # TTWPRG235R16, you would have a max psi of 110 and need to use a valve stem like the Americana Metal, Bolt-In Valve Stem - 1-1/4" Long - Over 100 psi # AM20906. Thoughts?
  12. All, just wanted to update. The good folks at Diesel Outfitters put the new SB clutch in. Turns out that the pilot bearing disintegrated. Looks like the lining on the disc was OK (not great), but there were other wear issues, so the new clutch was the way to go. The rear main was starting to show signs of leaking so a new one was put in at the time. At SBs advice, I ordered the clutch from Summit. I had voiced my concern of getting a Chinese throw out bearing, but was told their stock probably turns fast enough for American bearings to be with the kit by now. Unfortunately, a Chinese bearing showed up in the kit. SB shipped me an American bearing for the price of expedited shipping. Really can't complain about the service, but I do wish I didn't have to go through the hassle in the first place. We all know the issues with Chinese bearings from years ago, so not sure why SB went there in the first place. Looks like they've fixed all of that and are heading in the right direction. The new clutch feels about the same as the stock. I haven't had a chance to really put any miles on it. Thanks again to Diesel Outfitters. Great service and took some time to show me the issues with the old parts on the bench. Dan
  13. Mark, I appreciate your- everyone's input and solid advice. I've already ordered the OK-HD on South Bend's recommendation- should be here Monday, hydros should be here today but probably more realistically Monday. If I had more time, and honestly, wanted to sink a bit more $$ into it, maybe the dual disk would work for me. I didn't want to take any chances on spending the money to get it in only to be disappointed. That said, you have a good suggestion for others that may be in the same boat in the future. If this SB clutch lasts me even 25% longer than the stock one, I'll be happy. At the rate I put miles on my truck, that puts me at least another 15 years out. Heck, by then I probably won't be able to shift the thing! Dan
  14. Agreed. I spoke with two companies today. Diesel Outfitters to see what they'd charge to do the install, and South Bend. I'll admit to being picky when spending money. Both of these companies were great to deal with. I'm sorry that I forget the name of the gal I talked to at Diesel Outfitters, but she answered all of my questions and even looked up clutch availability for me on the west coast. South Bend told me how to check the clutch fork for end play, and even suggested that I not buy the clutch directly from them as I'd get it faster and cheaper going through a couple of other shops. My only concern is that I may get a non-American throw out bearing, but was told that most stock is turned fast enough with some of the bigger parts houses that it shouldn't be a problem. I'm taking a bit of a gamble and ordered through Summit. I'll check the T.O bearing when it gets here to make sure I have a US made bearing.
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