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DieselBound

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DieselBound last won the day on November 27 2019

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    Arlington, WA
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  1. My 94 was finally invaded by mice. I'd had it out of the garage/shop because I had my tractor inside (which had been taking hits from mice- my tractor's a lot more expensive than my truck, so that was my rationale- I also spend more time inside the tractor over the course of the year): last summer the blower fan in my cabbed tractor failed and I had a bunch of mowing in the heat [no blower, no AC] all the while being exposed to mouse stench from them getting up into the top of the cab (freakin dealer used RTV to seal the top- about 8 hours of clean up for that bit of stupidity). A friend ga
  2. Just a note regarding some comments here... If you run these things low on oil it'll be the top end that will cook first (well, the turbo can go first, depends on what the stresses are at the time). Bottom ends on these things seems to take far more strategic approaches to destroy. My wife's daughter drove her ALH Jetta wagon with the oil light on. WTH? The guy we bought it from, the one who was an "expert," who told me that you can individually adjust the injection on each cylinder, and who didn't bother to change out the TB components when he replaced the belt and
  3. Verified with Dorman that the part does not fit, that it is fact miscatagorized. The person there said that it looks like the redesign happened for model year 1997. The long and short of it appears that if you have a pre-97 2nd Gen that you're likely not going to be able to get a new linkage. Solution might be to also replace the wiper motor with a 97-02 one. Forum member gearhead welded up the passenger linkage piece to the shaft and it's as good, no, BETTER than new! THANK YOU!
  4. I got a hold of Rock Auto. After a couple exchanges they tell me that Dorman has mis-catagorized the part. They, Rock Auto, wouldn't provide any solution other than a refund. I feel like they just brushed me off. Crappy customer service. I don't think I'll [attempt to] buy anything from them again. Now going to have to track down someone with a welder to weld the old linkage. Apparently Deja Vu for this truck!
  5. I emailed Rock Auto and will see what they have to say. Browsing on the Internet I see nothing but round-hole linkages and wiper motors that are for slotted. Perhaps this is a new design? (though I'm not seeing how it would work*) It's like it's meant to slip under binding (from wiper blades being frozen or ice and or snow jamming them up). I'd think that it would be smarter to just de-rate the fuse and allow it to blow under excess load (easy to replace a fuse) than to slip the mechanical pieces and have to open up the cowling to reset the arm to motor connection.
  6. So, got the part and went to replace it and it's NOT going to work! The linkage that connects to the motor is keyed, a slot, and the new one is a non-keyed hole (that is undersized for the motor's shaft). The replacement's linkage is also flat, whereas the current/old one has a bend/offset (a step). The pivot balls/posts are larger on the replacement than the old linkage- I can't just swap the linkage. The linkage was replaced when PO had the truck. Service records also show that within two months after replacing they "removed the new wiper linkage," but no mention o
  7. Went ahead and sprang for the linkage fr Rock Auto (thanks for the tip). If I managed to get the old one rewelded something else would likely then have broken!
  8. I really only need that stubby piece. It's not what I read to be a rod (which seems common). Not sure if one can readily replace only it, whether it's even possible (and since this one has been welded on it might not accept a replacement piece). I just seem to recall that there were parts replaced. Could have been the motor and the shop doing the work discovered the linkage issue when replacing it and it was they who ended up doing the weld job.
  9. A while back I lost the passenger side wiper function. Thankfully the driver's side worked/works. Had a service record from previous owner that the wipers were fixed or something replaced: at some point I'll rummage around and see exactly what was done. I pulled the cowling to find that the short piece of linkage arm (passenger side) had been tack welded to the post that the wiper arm and blade attaches to. I am guessing that the splines on this stub of linkage got chewed up and failed to hold. Sadly, I don't have a welder otherwise I just look to do anoth
  10. Wanted to thank you for this note. I might look into doing something like this. Though the car operates exceptionally well, after driving it for about 500 miles now I'm reminded why I got my DG short shifter for my car. I'll see how my wife reacts once she's back to driving this car after driving mine for a while now.
  11. There's lots of Red Line products, in which case it depends on what specifically you and he were discussing. But... I can't see how it would matter as long as it was 75W90 GL-4 fluid. My understanding is that break-in is more about driving (not beating on the trans- no mention to avoid this, but I'm not doing so; clutch break-in requirements kind of necessitate that one goes a bit easy anyway, so in my situation the new clutch keeps me throttled back) and performing an early drain in order to expel manufacturing impurities. I don't think there's a break-in for synchro
  12. Just following up... I completed all my work: OK, still have the backup camera to install and to buff the headlights and overlay with LAMIN-X). Other than the normal things that one needs to cuss at/over the biggest PITA was replacing the bushing in the transmission shift tower: rebuild doesn't come with one- used the original one (which probably was OK, but since I had to swap it I figured I'd do it). Aaron (Cascade German) recommended and sent Red Line MT-LV and Red Line Superlight Shockproof fluid and it seems to work pretty good: apparently this is a good cocktail
  13. Congrats on the new setup. It's stunning! I will NOT be showing this to my wife!
  14. Kelly, watch out for the issue with WebLink. Folks at Kenwood never got the memo that Android Auto and Apple CarPlay would pretty much make WebLink obsolete. My HU is a JVC. I wanted to get one for the wife's car but she wanted easier-to-use manual volume controls (buttons on the left side; screen slightly smaller). Kenwood absorbed JVC. I don't believe Kenwood has pushed WebLink into the JVC line. Aside from WebLink the Kenwood is really about the same as my JVC: both are great units. I just love jamming my phone into my docking station and Android Auto launches and start my
  15. Aaron seemed to say that the transmission wouldn't come with a tower. Or that's how I heard him. Earlier conversation he said I'd need to swap them. Might be that it makes no sense in shipping with one if I'm going to use the one from the existing transmission. As my wife is fine with the existing shifting I'll opt to just leave it alone. I'll be getting the transmission next Friday. Perfect timing for me!
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