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DieselBound

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DieselBound last won the day on March 25

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  1. DieselBound

    Newbie with first Dodge/Cummins, 2nd gen

    On the Golf, sent you a PM.
  2. DieselBound

    Newbie with first Dodge/Cummins, 2nd gen

    Thanks, Paul. I've got it on my list to go there and check them out. I've got these Interstates on my list: https://www.interstatebatteries.com/products/mtp-78dt Kind of leaning toward 34/78 because I can then offload a bunch of add-on terminals on the side posts.
  3. DieselBound

    Newbie with first Dodge/Cummins, 2nd gen

    Still have it on my list to check for steering play. But, meanwhile... Got a quote on a new clutch, SBC_SDD3250-5K (with input shaft upgrade), GSK install and tweaks. In order to fund this I first need to sell the wife's old 2000 Golf TDI: need to catch up on some maintenance odds and ends- anyone interested in it can contact me- it's in mechanically great condition (had just installed new suspension, Koni Reds, and a new clutch); only reason we're parting with it is because her son was giving up his 2003 Golf TDI and she wanted it (it's cosmetically in excellent condition; lower miles etc.). Had hauled my tractor and trailer to Monroe and back and found that, while it got the job done, I was sorely needing more power: my 93 Ford IDI would have struggled even more; never dared try this with that. Also need to deal with some dead batteries (after sitting for a long time now). Going to see if I can restore them. If not then it's time to shell out for new ones: can't justify the cost of AGMs. Wanting to revisit a solar trickle charger, but need to have confidence that one will do the job: I'd put one on my old Ford and it seems that once I did that it actually ended up killing those batteries! (need to see if it has a bad blocking diode, or if it even has one!)
  4. DieselBound

    12 Valve Injectors question

    As I will be embarking on a power upgrade on my 94 12v I'm interested in this subject as well. My experience is very limited with these engines, though I do have a fair bit of experience with VW TDIs (ALHs, currently sitting with four of them). Not mentioned here is what the objective is. What's the HP and torque target? How is the truck to be used? (driving style/environment matters too- for an on-street towing vehicle one would tend to want a less jumpy vehicle). How much money is there for this work/project? Will there need to be changes to the drivetrain to handle the added power? Best way to be happy with an outcome is to define what outcome one wants. As a general rule, adding fuel alone is only part of the equation, and that equation can come out all malformed (poor results) if one doesn't also increase air. Usually when one pushes more fuel one has to ensure there is ample air. If a quality injector/nozzle, and one isn't on the very high end of fuel inputs (competition level, such that you're fueling for the max), and there's ample air then smoke shouldn't really be an issue (minor adjustments should resolve: all assumes timing is set to match (more advance needed to give time to burn more fuel), and EGTs shouldn't suffer. Will a larger turbo be needed (or a compound)? All said, I could NOT, with these engines, tell anyone what injectors/nozzles, turbos, delivery valves or pump mods to go with: I mostly understand all of it, what the theories are and such, but am not sufficiently exposed to know what is or isn't a good combination (I defer to the experts). But, the basic notion that one needs to be able to specify one's goals (requirements) up front is, for sure, sound advice: I did lots of research on my TDIs before modding them and I got exactly what I was looking for (and after many years I'm still happy with my decisions)..
  5. DieselBound

    Gen2 front turnsignals same between sport and non-sport?

    Gary, I think that the sheet metal mods are only required to facilitate the extra bulb in the headlight (fixture). The turn signal pieces look to be shaped the same on both versions. Looking on samples on Ebay I see that the lenses on the turn signals seem to be different; not wanting to trust the accuracy on Ebay (some folks are listing headlights claiming to also work on "sport" models and when you look more closely you see that they're single-bulb headlights- yeah, OK, if one wants to downgrade one's headlights I suppose they'd be "compatible"). I've got one sport headlight (and I feel stupid for having to admit this- I haven't really looked at it! [been busy- it's not near me so I cannot verify]) and am looking to get the other side (which looks like it'll take piecing things together to make up one complete unit). At any rate, I really hadn't run across much written about all of this, in which case I figured creating this thread might help someone else hone in on the answer a little quicker.
  6. I'm on a quest to outfit my truck with sport headlights and am wondering whether the sport headlight fixtures utilize the same or different turn signal housings as the non-sport ones.
  7. DieselBound

    Newbie with first Dodge/Cummins, 2nd gen

    Verified I have a tilt steering wheel. Will check all for signs of play. (on the back burner for now as I have lots on my plate)
  8. DieselBound

    Doin outside work

    Yeah, I figured that was the case. I have literally "gotten" equipment from him. I bought his old Best dump trailer 😁 I almost rented that 50G a couple weekends ago, but opted no: decided it wasn't big enough for the work I needed to do (lots of big stump work). I was after the TB285 and at the last minute Todd discovered that the thumb was messed up: it's now fixed and I've got it for this weekend.
  9. DieselBound

    Doin outside work

    Nice work, Hoss! Did you rent that 50G from Springer?
  10. DieselBound

    Newbie with first Dodge/Cummins, 2nd gen

    Gary, I'm scratching my head trying to think if it's got the adjustable steering column or not- as I sit here I cannot say 🤔 I'm wanting to say that it does. But... I'll check and see if it's applicable. Yes, it does have a steering stabilizer bar (installed along with the Red Head steering box by PO, I figure). Kind of wondering whether a more robust steering stabilizer would help. I had just installed a new stock one (original didn't work with the new drag link). Steering just seems to be a bit tiring. Granted, it's not a car (and not my Golf, which has newer and tight/nice suspension and nearly drives itself), but I can't really fathom that any truck rolling off the factory line would steer like this. My 93 F250 wandered a bit, and the suspension was amply worn out (though still align-able), but I don't recall it feeling this tiring to drive. When I have time I'm going to double-check everything for slop (especially the pitman arm and ball joints). And in case it matters (did not realize it until doing some research just now), the front end bits I installed were a Y to T conversion. My understanding is that this ought to be a substantial change/upgrade. Was out dragging my 16 1/2' utility trailer, moving the wife's son's family (up in Vancouver- can't say I enjoyed running 41' of truck+trailer around such congested roadways), and the truck got the job done, though I really would have liked to have had more power. And, while up there I picked up a driver's sport headlight fixture (Craigslist): excellent condition: had to venture in to Chinatown- I think I was the largest moving mass around! Now need to pick up a passenger side one and I'll do that conversion.
  11. DieselBound

    Newbie with first Dodge/Cummins, 2nd gen

    Reporting back... I replaced the front end bits. The Synergy stuff is MASSIVE compared to the stock pieces: the tie rod weighs more than both the original drag link and tie rod. Had to buy a new stabilizer as the Synergy uses a through-bolt whereas the original has a stud (spent some time trying to get the stud out but gave up). Most of the work was in adjusting things: first time setting toe and I got it nearly spot-on, close enough. Diesel Outfitters took care of all the other things. The vacuum pump was replaced (reman one) because the original(?) vacuum pump was a 3-piece and (was told that) these don't have seals available. The KDP had been done: PO wasn't blowing smoke; so, probably can assume he was also telling the truth about the 5th gear nut fix being done as well. Had the belts, rollers and hoses changed out since it was all being handled anyway: now I don't have to worry about any of it for quite some time. I can tell a slight improvement, but things weren't really all that bad yet. There's a bit of steering wander, though I don't know what good steering on this generation of truck is supposed to be like: I'm spoiled because my cars' suspensions are all newer and very tight. I'll look to follow-up on this later. Installed a new trailer brake controller (Tekonsha 90195) as the existing one didn't seem to be working (and it gave no visual feedback on settings). Pulled the knee bolster panel off and saw a huge tangle of wires😱 Not sure how people can wire stuff up so crappily! Alarm system and aftermarket stereo introduced a LOT of wires. Did the best I could without really chopping and re-running stuff. And in the engine compartment there was also several add-on wires that were just hastily "routed." Cleaned those up as well. At some future point I'll look to install some 4k springs in the IP. Perhaps end of Fall. I'm pretty happy with this truck. For being almost 25 years old it's pretty tight and rattle-free. Of course, the 12v is sweet, fires right up and is smooth and strong.
  12. DieselBound

    Chasing the clunk

    While I don't like being overly paranoid about everything, there ARE such things as manufacturing defects/issues. Even the best manufacturers can spit out something that flies under the QA process/radar. Every manufacturer has their statistical curves. Assuming that one doesn't have a defective new part can lead to a lot of tail-chasing in cases where they have in fact gotten a hold of a defective new part. I have had ONE bad shock out of twelve that I recently installed (a Koni Red; rear shock [this one didn't self-correct] in which case the pain wasn't too bad). Anyway... You should be able to isolate to one side or the other when up on a lift. Would hate to hear that you had to pull everything apart on both sides. Perhaps take some quick resting measurements to see if one side is sitting differently than the other. I'd read where someone installed struts assemblies and found that they didn't match! (chased around a problem for some time- they didn't have ready access to tools, a relative did the work and there was a lot of finger pointing). I seem to recall that the anomaly was apparent in measurements.
  13. DieselBound

    Selling the 98 12v g56 compounds

    Long trips and rising fuel prices = need for a diesel!
  14. DieselBound

    Chasing the clunk

    What shocks/struts? I've had issues with Konis, Koni Reds to be exact. Working through a vendor it was noted that they tend to trap some air and that the air needs to be purged: before installing- I suggested that perhaps Koni should make a note of this! In my limited experience (only two sets of Reds) it was the shocks (rears) that I had issues with. Here's from my conversation with the vendor (after they talked with Koni): To get the air out before install: Turn the shock upside down Compress it fully (take the tape off so you can get to the full stroke of the piston) Count to 5 Turn it right side up Extend the piston fully. You may have to do this two or three times, but it should clear the problem.
  15. DieselBound

    2nd Gen Steering Box Upgrade

    That van SB would be great for backing up!
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