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DieselBound

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DieselBound last won the day on March 25 2018

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    Arlington, WA
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  1. DieselBound

    Parts Internet Links

    I suspect it's fairly recent. Will keep this in mind, thanks!
  2. DieselBound

    Fuel milage not as good as hoped

    Yes, winter and winter fuel puts a dent in MPGs, no doubt, but I still get over 45 mpg: http://www.fuelly.com/car/volkswagen/golf/2000/uhoh/333519/fuelchart Mostly the same with my wife's previous car (one of the later big dips, can't recall which one, was from a dragging brake): http://www.fuelly.com/car/volkswagen/golf/2000/uhoh/333520/fuelchart 36mpg is on the lowest end of any MPG report I've ever run across: and that person's car had issues (not sure what they were).
  3. DieselBound

    Fuel milage not as good as hoped

    Slacker! I should have guessed seeing as it's only showing 24 fill-ups.
  4. DieselBound

    Parts Internet Links

    I mostly use ID Parts. I like their parts stocking (web site is very easy to navigate): I like Koni stuff and Cascade German doesn't carry it. Next clutch, however, will likely be from Cascade German (again): I love the DC Stage I clutch I have in my car (it specs out comparably with a Southbend Stage II, but is a bit cheaper).
  5. DieselBound

    Fuel milage not as good as hoped

    Yeah, and I have this suspicion the Go pedal has lots of carpet time😁 Bugs don't get as good of mileage, though that's more on out and out cruising. But... your Fuelly number of 47.2 suggests that you're not exactly an MPG bottom dweller.
  6. DieselBound

    Fuel milage not as good as hoped

    Yes, this colder weather does have an effect, but so far I don't hear of any reason for why your numbers should be this low: if you were getting 40mpg right now I'd still being saying that this was low. Scan it with VCDS. If you could make it my way I'd be happy to check it.
  7. DieselBound

    Fuel milage not as good as hoped

    And those 13 miles are what kind? I live off a major highway, in which case my cars can get up to proper operating temps within 10 miles (at 5 miles thermostats are opening up- about 140 degrees). If it was city miles then it ain't going to happen. Blocking off the radiator/grill area can help for cold temps and short trips: I've used pipe foam over the grill- quit using it because, before I got my garage, my geese would bite and pull off the foam! Any CEL (Check Engine Light)? Can't recall if a bad CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor trips a CEL); but, a bad CTS can hammer down MPGs. A degraded MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor) will also beat down MPG: performance degradation is usually noticeable. I'm a big supporter of having something like a Scan Gauge or Ultra Gauge in my cars. These allow me to monitor actual temps, boost, mpg and other stuff. Also can display codes and clear them.
  8. DieselBound

    Looking for opinions, not spending $$ yet

    PD EGR valves and intakes aren't very susceptible to clogging: as bad a rap as the VE engines got they're not bad as long as you know how to operate/drive them (had one engine go 150k miles before I cleaned things up [most miles up to that point were from previous owners]- performance was still good). Messing with injectors on the PD engines is significantly more costly than on the VE engines. Fortunately, however, tunes on PD engines can command a lot more fuel (stage 2 and, maybe stage 3 before changes to injectors?) Really, always, comes down to being able to specify what kind of performance numbers one is looking to achieve.
  9. DieselBound

    Fuel milage not as good as hoped

    Stock, not stock? What is your driving environment/conditions like? Mostly city, short hops, or highway, longer trips? Are you towing your truck with it? Do you drive with your foot planted all the time? I'll refrain from further guessing. Input/data is essential for troubleshooting (especially virtually- I can't plug my VCDS in via Internet😉)
  10. DieselBound

    Fuel milage not as good as hoped

    I'd like offer some advice but I have no idea what your car is (other than it's a TDI) or what your driving environment is like. If the car is an MKIV with an ALH and a manual transmission then there's no reason why it would get anything under 43mpg in all but the worst conditions (folks running 70mph AND towing another MKIV over hills manage to get 43mpg!). I have had up to four MKIV TDIs at one time, all four door, manual transmission Golfs (one was a 6spd, but, sadly, I had to let it go- too many cars!). With the exception of a new addition, as it's two new to have had a chance, I've rung up 800+ mile tanks (hand calculated) in each. My own Golf has averaged 50.7mpg over the course just under the 66k miles I've had it. New car has a Malone Stage 3 tune with T4 nozzles (will replace with DLC1019s when I get a chance), while the others have Malone Stage 2 tunes with DLC520 nozzles. I don't beat my cars, but I also don't hesitate to hammer on them either. I've never rang up a tank at less than 42.98mpg (only 3 times under 45mpg- all when I first got the car, before resolving many issues). I just rang up 52.5mpg on my car, running winter tires. Wife put on a lot of the miles (I am not able to drive for a while yet), but she also puttered around town a bit as well. A good 80% is highway, which is why I drive these cars (it's the right tool for the job). Check for dragging brakes. If it's wet outside take a look at the wheels to see if there are any that look really dry compared to the others (usually only the inner portion of the wheels should be dry). I've noted a good 3mpg drop from hanging brakes. Diesels just power through, it's hard to really feel dragging brakes.
  11. DieselBound

    Time for new batteries

    Folks, thanks for the input. I'll keep in mind when I look to do more wire cleanup: when I yank the fogs and do the sport headlight retrofit. Full disclosure: I went to disconnect my batteries in order to replace them and after I had the cables all disconnected I bumped the cable going to the 2nd battery only to notice that that cable wasn't connected to the positive cable on the primary battery! Feel silly. Explains why with my initial charging (when truck was near the garage and I could put the charger om it) I wasn't seeing the second battery being charged with the charger on the first battery: I did put the charger on it, but... After that, with parasitic drain and cold weather, the primary battery just wasn't enough to start the truck. Moral of the story: one NEEDS TWO batteries, and needs them BOTH HOOKED UP!🤭 Got things properly hooked up (evident that I really need to deal with all the extra wires as I struggled to get them back on with only one arm/hand) and it started right up (since that second battery had been charged and without any drain- four year old NAPA Legend; other battery is three years old and lower quality- I'll be sure to replace both at the same time); let it run for a while and now will see how long things hold up.
  12. DieselBound

    Time for new batteries

    Yes, the truck currently has a terminal block (with re-settable breakers), but it's not sufficient. I think I need to revisit what all I have got connecting up (have fog lights there, and these need to be chucked- will be installing sport head lights when I regain use of both arms). I''ve already done a bunch of wire clean-up. Group size of existing batteries in truck is 27. So... looks like I'll just go with the EverStart MAXX from Wally. Will look to add negative post cut-outs, something like this:
  13. DieselBound

    Time for new batteries

    Patrick, I was looking for something that allows small gauge wires to attach to the side terminals. The more I contemplate disconnecting the battery terminal when the truck sits the less I'm inclined to go with the top and side post battery: maybe just run single connections to terminal blocks. Effectively, I'm wanting to reduce auxiliary wire clutter on the primary terminal posts AND to facilitate easy disconnect of the power. Two batteries makes things a bit more difficult: I believe that the Pac Brake uses the left battery (only auxiliary off of that battery). Maybe I should start up a separate thread on this?
  14. DieselBound

    Time for new batteries

    I'm seeing 34 and 27 listed as group sizes for my truck. What exactly fits? (yes, I've read that the battery tray can be modified to facilitate bigger batteries, but I'm not thinking that my electrical loads warrant such; plus, I''m currently limited to the use of only one arm for some time [and, sigh, it's my non-dominant arm]). Russ, your bad batteries are only holding up for a few weeks? Mine don't last more than a few DAYS! I've read that many of the more generic-named batteries are made by multiple manufactures (kind of depends on region), in which case one cannot be sure of the actual manufacturer. This uncertainty is why I'm opting for a cheaper battery (with comparable specs) and lesser warranty: price out as cost per years warrantied seems a reasonable approach. Battery I'm currently considering is the Autocraft Silver (34/78). Walmart doesn't have a comparable battery, and it doesn't have anything in the 800CCA range.
  15. DieselBound

    Time for new batteries

    I'm shopping for new batteries for my truck. I've got lots of wiring ganged up on the existing terminals and am wondering if it makes sense to offload on side terminals, going with a 34/78 battery. Truck sits a lot, in which case I'm also starting to think about whether I should be disconnecting the batteries; side terminals would tend to make for additional work. Will be going for a cheaper battery for this round: can get a 34/78 with 800CCA 115 reserve minutes and 24mo replacement warranty for $130 ea For those using the side terminals for aux wiring, what are you using for post connectors?
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