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megacabcummins

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megacabcummins last won the day on March 15 2015

megacabcummins had the most liked content!

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About megacabcummins

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    Everything feels almost new when you start over....
  • Birthday 09/05/1966

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    Marysville, WA
  1. megacabcummins

    NHRDA News

    Yea Randy was looking at other rigs and I told him about Roberts truck, 8 years later and it's still going strong. I think it was a good investment. Randy's plan all along what for an organization like NRHA or IHRA to purchase the NHRDA and keep it going, maybe that happened. The downside to that would be no sled pulls or show n shine, the upside maybe would be increase purse sizes. And Hoss is 100% right, Randy is one hell of a nice guy, but he is difficult to work for at times.
  2. megacabcummins

    NHRDA News

    No there were quite a few other people before me, and I left at the end of the season and gave him plenty of notice.
  3. megacabcummins

    NHRDA News

    Gee never saw this coming....
  4. megacabcummins

    Question on brakes

    After getting my rotors turned, these were O Reilly oem replacement rotors nothing special, and installing the Performance Brake ceramic pads I'm really happy with them. There is minimal brake dust so far, they don't stop quite as good as the EBC pads I had, but that could be the rotors, or a combination of both. Regardless I am happy with the pads and how the truck stops. I'll buy from them again.
  5. megacabcummins

    Here's a head scratcher!

    I don't know about the other stuff but he for sure needs new filters....
  6. megacabcummins

    New Transmission

    Finally got around to rebuilding my ball joints, wanted to drive around a bit on them before commenting. I did the rear brakes a couple weeks ago because I completely lost a pad on the passenger inside rear, which in turn took out the rotor. That totally bummed me out since the cost of these rotors are are so high. Oh well move on.... So I had the old rotors turned at Stilly Napa and they got them done quick, they actually forgot about them but still got them done when they said they would lol. I also picked up new clips and pin boots (whatever they are called) from brake performance when I got the pads and got the new pads and everything installed in the rear. Friday before last I got time to tear into the front, same deal as the rear... turned rotors, new pads, new clips, and new boots. I also figured it was a good time to rebuild the ball joints, and it started raining, not bad but enough to suck. Grabbed a couple welding magnets and stuck a blue tarp to the side of the truck and kept at the passenger side, the passenger side lower pin was froze to the knuckle. Hitting the knuckle with a BFH was just pushing the lower cup out of the knuckle. Then I remembered I had a small torch so I heated the lower knuckle and it finally popped off. Pins came out quite easily and the lower bearing was clearly worn. Then I used an old Ford hub socket and the dodge 44mm socket with a chunk of all thread to push the cup back into the axle C, worked like a charm. Well per the instructions you can remove the pins from the bearings with a BFH. I didn't see that happening without doing damage to the pins, so Monday I ran up to Diesel Outfitters and Mike was nice enough to help me out and we used the press to swap the bearings on the pins. Got home and popped the lower in without issue. The upper was a bit stubborn but finally seated correctly. Went to put it back together and nothing was lining up. Then I reread the instructions I had skipped over and I missed the part where it said leave a 1/4" between the bearing and the lip on the pin. S#!T... Tried a few different things and nothing was budging... So instead of damaging anything and getting more mad I put my tools away and went in the house. Then I ordered a ball joint press off of Amazon, same day shipping. Got home Tuesday and jumped into getting everything done. Ball joint press worked like a charm, it also worked great for pressing the pins out of the calipers that were quite stubborn, only thing that was tricky was the lower seal. Keeping it seated while the glue dried was messy, but it's on there (the other side was a bugger too) Next I jumped into the other side, having the ball joint press made things go much easier, again the lower was shot and this side was worse than the passenger, this time I heated the upper and lower and the knuckle came off with zero issue. I was even able to use the bearing press to press the bearings off and on the pins. Got it all together and remembered I forgot to grease the lower before I put the axle back in.,.. crap... well there is really no room in there and I had heard guys had temporarily put a normal zerk in there to grease the lower then put the needle zerk back in... no go. So the axle came back out (antisieze makes this so much easier), greased it up real quick then back together and then got the caliper ect on. Truck drives like a new truck, I thought some of the tire shake I had was just because of the 37's on the oem wheels, turns out the tire shake was worn ball joints. I still have a small notchy spot in the steering that is the tie rod, it is in need of replacement but much more driveable now. The tre on the passenger side feels like there is gravel in it lol.... but I indexed it 90 degrees and it'll be good for a month or so. The brakes are great, really impressed with these, especially for the cost savings over ebc. Next is rear pinion seal, or oil pan gasket....
  7. megacabcummins

    Question on brakes

    I just installed the pads I bought from Brake Performance, per suggestions from here, only a couple miles on them but so far I like them a lot. I also bought the kit with the caliper pin boots and clips.
  8. megacabcummins

    Thank God for new technology!!!

    I've been known to run mine 25/20.... then drop it to 10/8... those tpms thingamabobbers would drive me bonkers.... another darn light in the dash lol
  9. megacabcummins

    Seattle city loud exhaust fines

    Looks like I won't be taking my truck into Seattle anymore, which is probably a good thing since the last time I went into downtown I "accidentally" left a bit of rubber on one of those steep uphills.... All the way to the next stop light 😈
  10. megacabcummins

    Owning a chainsaw does not make you a logger

    I won't drop a tree next to a building, I'll let someone who's covered by insurance do it. Anything else I have no problem with. I dropped an old oak not far from Byron's house, that thing spun 270* on the stump and ended up on the RR tracks. Then we were scrambling to get it all cleaned up before the train came through. A big mistake most people make is not a large enough saw, the faster you get through the wood the safer it is.
  11. megacabcummins

    Here is a working man's drag car!

    Oh dayum.... Throw some Micky T's on there and see what she does, that car has 9 seconds written all over it. What was the cut off time for a cage??
  12. megacabcummins

    Doin outside work

    That's really nice Mark :)
  13. megacabcummins

    Paint chips on the 2014

    I'm sure you know this, but check the paint in someplace you cannot see to make sure it's right.
  14. megacabcummins

    Paint chips on the 2014

    There's quite a few people on autogeek with some pretty nice show cars that use it with some pretty respectable results. It won't fix your paint to show quality, but it will put color in the paint chip.
  15. megacabcummins

    Paint chips on the 2014

    This is what Dr Colorchip has for your truck... https://www.drcolorchip.com/select-product.php What you could do is clean the spots you have best you can without removing the paint, then apply a small amount of primer with a tiny brush or toothpick, then go over it with the dr colorchip kit. That will do two things, stop any rust, and it "should" bring the paint closer to the right thickness. The dr colorchip kit puts color in the paint chip, it doesn't fill it unless you do several applications.
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